This is the third (and final) installment of the Domino Magazine post trilogy (for reference see
Part 1 and
Part 2). ;) The following are scanned images of the mini-article called "The Rise And Fall (And Rise) Of J.Crew". I found this to be the most interesting part of the Domino Magazine coverage of Jenna Lyons.
As you can see, I have broken up the page into two parts to make it easier for viewing. To read the article better, just click on either image (which will take you to a larger version of that image). :)
What is your take on this "rise, fall, and now rise" of J.Crew? Was the 90's the "fall" of J.Crew? Do you agree or disagree with any of the points made (e.g. that Jenna "saves" J.Crew during the 2000's)? :)
As you can see, I have broken up the page into two parts to make it easier for viewing. To read the article better, just click on either image (which will take you to a larger version of that image). :)
What is your take on this "rise, fall, and now rise" of J.Crew? Was the 90's the "fall" of J.Crew? Do you agree or disagree with any of the points made (e.g. that Jenna "saves" J.Crew during the 2000's)? :)
I'd love to get my hands on an early catalog -- a la the 80s ones pictured here. Any suggestions? Thanks.
ReplyDeleteI feel like some of the stuff in the 80's catalogue would be popular today, like that ruffled button up shirt. It's sort of similar to the Victoria blouse.
ReplyDeleteAs far as designs go, I can't really speak to that because I didn't follow J.Crew in the 80's or 90's, but I would imagine that while the designs played a significant role in the store's popularity, I would imagine that the marketing and branding plays a larger role. The layout of the cataloges and website in which the clothes are displayed seems to have more to do with the appeal of an item than the actual item itself, especially for me as a shopper who has never been to a B&M due to no stores being near me. I would be interested to see how their marketing department and strategies transformed over those time periods!
I followed JCrew in the late 80's, a bit in the 90's and then bought a lot in early 2000--present.
ReplyDeleteRight now I just can't get over how thin the sweaters are...I remember nice, thick cozy winter sweaters...these thin things out now are a real disappointment to me. At least offer some of both for differing climates.
Like jcrewlover said in the Part 1 of this Post yesterday...it's very interesting how they make it sound as if Jenna is responsible for the second *rise* of J.Crew, and there is no mention of Mickey whatsoever...perhaps because the Domino article was about her? Still seems to me as if he should be mentioned...
ReplyDeleteAlso, Jenna and J.Crew are following the runway trends, just like everyone else. I really don't think her ideas are all that original...it WAS a great move on her and Mickey's part to pick up on the trends and incorporate them into *J.Crew style* though.
FFM: Great point about following the runway trends, I was in Old Navy and there were alot of similar styles that JC had, their outerwear in particular, they were just copying the current trends.
ReplyDeleteI think Jenna puts her mark on some of the bright colors especially Citron and the Orange.
casual-crew: TOTALLY agree...Jenna DEFINITELY loves her bright colors! ;)
ReplyDeleteBtw...Chanel designed a *Cascading Roses* couture gown...it's photographed in the October edition of Vogue. Seems to me that it must have been part, if not all of the inspiration for the J.Crew Cascading Flowers Astrid Jacket...
During the past year I started buying men's clothing from J Crew because of particular items that I consider work wear. That is, flannel shirts and chambray shirts, and thermal henleys. From this season I like the oilcloth field jacket and the Red Wing boots collection, especially the 899 and Iron Ranger.
ReplyDeleteThe reason I like the above is because they are classic. You can be any age and you won't look a fool if you wore them.
I like the classic, timeless pieces that JCrew used to put out many more of than they do now...Looking back all the florals for fall...tops,skirts cascading, whatever-- will be very dated to Fall 2008. I prefer to buy classic pieces with a touch of flair...not those that scream trend!
ReplyDeleteI agree, love that Jenna has added a casual glam to the classics. Was in old navy & grabbed a dark green silk sleeveless blouse that looks just like the Lydia ivory blouse I got 2 weeks ago, but the ON was $10! Agree w. dude, you can be any age & wear JCrew, bec. its classic w/ an upscale feeling, that's why I like it much more than the Gap or ON.
ReplyDeleteI miss the old jcrew -- at least, late 90s early 2000s when I was first buying. There's a lot of new stuff I like, but I'd love to be able to buy a shetland wool crewneck and $58 jeans again! Most of the sweaters are too thin now. And I agree with FFM, the 'new' ideas really aren't groundbreaking, they are just skewing more higher scale, copying the more expensive runway lines.
ReplyDeleteI love classic looks. Too many times in the past I see a picture of myself from the 80s or 90s and cringe. Bad hair style or bad clothes. The few pictures that I'm okay with are always the ones with classic pieces like a Polo rugby shirt, demin shirt or v neck sweater.
ReplyDeleteJ.Crew tends to ahve menswear that won't make you cringe later in life. The preppy look works for me and I'm guessing I'm a 'J.Crewer' for life.
That guy in the 80's photo with the yellow knee-socks and matching shorts is hilarious!! LOL!!! Now that's truly cringe-worthty!
ReplyDeleteHeather,
ReplyDeleteOh how i'd love one of those sweaters too...
JCrew, please bring back a nice, warm toasty sweater that isn't made of alpaca or some other exotic wool. Just a nice winter weight wool sweater:)
Yes, I echo those who have commented on the thin sweaters - I wish they would bring back the thicker sweaters!
ReplyDeleteI think much of J. Crew's asthetic to me in the 90's was like when I flip through, say a A&F or Land's End catalog. All basic's with a slight change but pretty much a whole catalog of the same casual/basic tees and pants over and over. No pizazz. The men's stuff before the style changes was crazy 80's preppy. My husband would see them and be like what guy would wear this stuff?! I vividly remember the men in the catalog looking like they stepped out of a John Hughes movie circa 1984, I think alot of the women's things were boring and much of the same! The catalog was not very appealing overall, at least to me. I actually ending up throwing them out without even looking inside, not anticipating them like I do currently. I even recall a website devoted to poking fun at the models/goofy poses and faces and had a photo that was the pick of the week or something of the sort!
ReplyDeleteOn a distantly related note, I noticed Victoria's Secret is trying to change their direction. Its interesting, as I used to buy a lot from them in the 90's and now I throw out catalogs like I used to J. Crew in 90's. Remember they had the 90's supermodels and more wearable clothes. I think they then turned into half slutty clubwear and half junior high loungewear as of late. Now CEO does not recognize brand and is trying to change image. They need it. Yikes.
lily,
ReplyDeleteSorry but disagree with your take on JCrew...
Jenna Lyons certainly didn't invent the tailored jacket with worn denim look, so I don't know how that's classic her.
ReplyDeleteLily: I agree with your take on VS.
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ReplyDeleteYes, I would love to see more pastel colors.
ReplyDeleteI prefer a more classic style and in many instances this does translate to preppy.
I like a few trendy pieces in my wardrobe but I don't buy them from JCrew....too expensive.
Old Navy and dept. stores are my places for trendy pieces. You can even hunt out a nicely made piece at Target and yes, even Wal-mart. I have a very nice 100% silk cami that I got there last year.
I agree with FFM (I posted this already): after all the fuss about the victoria shirts/camis and JCrew's "we offer unique pieces" campaign, I was really surprised to see the exact same ruffle on a black cami displayed at Nordstrom (I have pictures as proof :)
ReplyDeleteAs for colors: they are unique for sure. I can't picture my closet containing only the bright ones though. I wish they had more pastel colors in general (they do offer more pieces in neutral colors now, I'm thrilled)
I really liked their preppy style, this is a big transition for them. I love Trixie heels for example but the ivory/black pattern is too bold for me to wear and can only be pulled off if worn with their other JCrew bright colored items....Bug pins-I haven't seen anything similar anywhere else yet but I still would personally never wear them :( On the other hand, I miss the striped sweater jackets, I wish those were offered permanently :)
I look at their recent items and the colors speak "seventies" to me. French double serge coat=1964 retro design+ bright saffron color (I am not trying to get THAT much attention when I walk out of my apartment...)
When I shop at JCrew, I tend to buy casual, comfortable and chic items which in my opinion are by far cutest when compared to other retailers (beaded tees, city tee cardigans, uptown totes, fionas....)
SanFranciscoCA: Can you point me to pictures of the Nordstrom ruffle cami? I'd like to see!
ReplyDeleteAlso, one thing I missed this year from J.Crew's offering were argyle sweater vests. I wanted to get one last year but couldn't decide on a color and then the next thing I knew, they didn't have any more in my size. I want a traditional one, like a crew neck or a v-neck, not the kind that they had this year with the tie on the bottom. And this was the first year in a long time that they didn't offer one ... or perhaps I missed it?
ellen: erm . . . I have a catalog from 2005 . . . Lol
ReplyDeletemelanie: i mentioned this in another post. Could this be the one SanFranciscoCA is referred to?
ReplyDeletecleo26: Oh yes! I remember seeing that one now. :) Thanks for the link.
ReplyDeleteI really like the ruffles on both the J.Crew and Nordstrom version but did not like it so much on me. :) Lucky those who can pull it off!
And, a random thought, but I have kept the herringbone Fiona in my closet for the past 2 months. It is finally cool enough to wear and I keep trying it on and oscillating my opinion on it. Yes to the neck-framing ruffle (which I like) and not so much to the boxy shape and short waist. I am petite so it is not so very short on me, but after trying it on (again) this morning, I think I should spend $150 on something I really love. Has this type of indecision happened to anyone?
I've been wearing JCrew since the eighties. I still wear a few favorite sweaters that are 15 years old. I love their current mix of bright color and classic style. At 52 I don't think I'm too old for JCrew, and I suspect I won't be too old at 72 either.
ReplyDeletemelanie: glad that was what you were looking for.
ReplyDeleteYes, this type of indecision happens to me way too often. Beautiful, distinct objects are like eye candy to me, and addictive. It happens to me because i find a cute piece then i'm left with figuring out how to match it with something else. I've tried to cure this tendency by only buying things that really jump out at me as if my life depended on them :), only after a period of time has passed (assuming sufficient inventory), and if i know what i'm going to wear the piece with.
Too funny! I posted earlier comment without even zooming in on the "old" catalog scans. I just posted out of memory because I would always shriek when I actually paged through a catalog as they were uber preppy to me, and they just got so stale if you were not looking for just staple tee's and khacki's. That photo of the cover is so Land's end to me and the pic of the guy says it all to confirm my memories of "what guy would walk out of the house like that?" are confirmed. I guess it all depends on your definition of the word preppy. I guess how you look at its past and present is kind of like the jewelry debate. If you loved the "staples" and are more conservative in taste, you may prefer the styles offered and think they are guady. If you are looking for statement items or punchy/different items, you will like the new offerings and find the old styles boring or "blah" as the article suggests. I do think the format and catalog are much more flattering and interesting to look at. Again, I guess to each his own.
ReplyDeleteI like the top from Nordstrom's much better than the JCrew one...don't know why but it just appeals to me more...
ReplyDeleteMelanie: that's the one!!! Sorry I didn't respond earlier, I just read your comment. I actually saw the black one....it's gorgeous in person.
ReplyDeleteFFM: I just caught another similar item to JCrew ribbon necklace (speaking of "unique pieces"). Check out "Lanvin wooden necklace" on Polyvore :)
It looks almost exactly like the JCrew glazed pecan color....I'd probably pick wood over stone because of the more dramatic effect.
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ReplyDeleteActually, the necklace doesn't show up when I look for it but I made a set with this necklace:
ReplyDeletehttp://www.polyvore.com/wooden_necklace/set?id=4342271
Melanie: I also have the fiona, it's a bit boxy on me but whenever I see those ruffles, all is forgiven :)
ReplyDeleteI have made a lot of impulsive buys recently (and in the past)- but now I am trying to avoid doing it. I am actually just spending time looking up items online and figuring out what I could wear them with BEFORE I buy. I am also creating sets on polyvore to see if things I have in my closet will fit with the ones I am intending to buy (color, design etc.) This way I can plan my closet and not end up buying items that will give me only one possible combination even if I happen to be smitten with them in stores :)
I agree with the take on this article, at least in part. I remember the j.crew from the 80s having a very distinct brand identity. In the 90s it fizzled somewhat, and the line between mens/womens blurred a bit in a boring way...remember all of those rollneck sweaters? Wool, cotton, all different colors...a little boring after awhile. I also remember catalogs from the 90s...a two-page spread that showed rows and columns of shoes and backpacks....not nearly as interesting as the story that weaves through the pages these days. Do you remember how they used to photograph the clothes in a rather boring way, just taking a picture of a shirt sort of rumpled, always a little wrinkly. Yes, I think j.crew has evolved. It's clear that their new style has admirers as well as critics, but part of the reason I like them now is that they have a little *energy* going on. Brand personality is much easier to grasp.
ReplyDeletesanfranciscoca: Thanks for the links...totally agree about the similarities, too. J.Crew is definitely not THE originator, but simply following the trends, and creating their own interpretation and *take* on the runway looks. :)
ReplyDeleteFFM: That's perfectly fine with me (there is always a "fashion trend" and designers/retailers follow it from season to season! :)
ReplyDeleteWhat bothers me a bit is when they insult shoppers' intelligence by saying "unique pieces" and not "pieces with a unique JCrew twist" (unique color etc.) I'm smitten with JCrew but I am still not a smitten idiot ;)
sanfranciscoca: well said...once again, I am in total agreement with you. :)
ReplyDelete