"Thanks!" to Cory, the Editor in Chief over at Valet Magazine, who let us know about their recent piece about suits for men which features J.Crew's charcoal suit (Jacket, $350; pants, $165; shirt, $70; knit tie, $50). (Click here for the link.)Ask Valet: A Day for Gray
September 2, 2008
Question: I own two three-button suits, one black and one tan, which I have worn to several weddings this year. I'd like to purchase an affordable suit for my son's christening at the end of September and was wondering if a two button blue or grey would be appropriate for the occasion. - Jason, Toronto
Answer: A black suit and a tan suit, eh? Those are great additions to have, but the two staples of a man's sartorial arsenal are exactly what you're looking for. We'd suggest starting with a classic two-button suit in a medium charcoal shade. It's obviously dressy, but has a casual ease—especially when paired with a knit tie and some suede shoes. With a narrow notch lapel and snug shoulders, this year-round wool suit is slimming without being a 'skinny suit.'
What do you think of this suit from J.Crew (in terms of style & fit)? Do you generally like suits in charcoal, or do you prefer more established colors like black or navy?
I love all things Gray, especially Charcoal Gray...I really think it is a great alternative to black. It is a rich, decadent, neutral and it gives *richness* to the colors it is paired with instead of cheapening their shades, as wearing them with black can often do.
ReplyDeleteAs far as the suit...I do like this one, but I don't like that they styled it with a knit tie, and I hate it with those white/cream shoes, too. I still think it must be very difficult to purchase a suit online, since it really needs to be tailored to each man's individual body type.
It's actually not overly difficult to purchase a suit online. Unlike women and their arbitrary numerical sizing (size 4 here is a size 8 there), the numbers on men's suits have a meaning. It probably won't be perfect, but almost every off the rack suit needs to be tailored in some way.
ReplyDeleteThe real question is are J. Crew suits worth over $500? For me they are not. The same amount of money purchases a basic suit at Brooks Brothers, and the quality of the items at Brooks are significantly higher.
The J. Crew suits might be appealing if they could be had at 20 or 30 percent off, but I never see them in the sale section (I only see the seasonal summer suits there).
MMiller does have a gray suit by BR that he loves. But for a son's christening that is a much dressier and important occasion. I certainly wouldn't pair it with suede bucks! I would tell that guy to go out and buy a gorgeous navy pinstripe suit and pair it with a pair of dressier black shoes.
ReplyDeleteI agree with you FFM knit ties are gross. The white scream shoes are called bucks (all the boys are prep school wore them ewwww). MMiller does wear them but thankfully only with his seer sucker suit (which is how they are supposed to be worn).
Jeff is right. For men is it disturbingly easy to buy a suit online. Everything is done in inches and good suits come without tailoring anyway.
Jeff I 100% agree with you about Brooks, and I think for the most part Brooks cuts their suits better as well. If you like Brooks, check out Hart, Marx and Schafner(I cant remember the last name on the partnership) suits. They are awesome
I really like gray and navy. It makes up 80% of the pants I wear to work. The problem I have with J.Crew suits are the jackets. I perfer a two button jacket and many of theirs are three button. I had one J.Crew jacket and it was a little too boxy for me.
ReplyDeleteThe new suits look a like more like the cut I'm interested in.
I'm not a fan of the bucks, but actually I am wearing a knit tie today with a washed favorite shirt in tartan and cream chinos and suede MacAlster boots in a camel colour. The boot are a favorite of mine, but they are from four years ago, the new ones are cut funny and fit small. I actually ordered a new pair in a dark chocolate leather from Clarks. The J.Crew ones just didn't fit right when i tried them.
Charcoal gray is a great color for a man's suit. It's dressy for all but the most formal occasions, but casual enough that it can blend in with those in tan, blue or even seersucker suits (I live in the South, hence the seersucker). My wedding was early in the day and was a very intimate casual affair, so my husband bought a charcoal suit to wear for the ceremony. It looked great with the lavender tie I made him wear! He wears the suit all the time.
ReplyDeleteIt's hard to go wrong with a Charcoal Grey suit. I have one myself from Charles Tyrwhitt and I’ve received many compliments about it. I've yet to see J.Crew actively promote the $640 suit in fact I would point to a bit of confusion around this. They have via their site the following;
ReplyDeleteItalian slim suit jacket
$375.00 item 97808
An updated silhouette—trim and tailored—in very refined wool flannel from Italy. Doubles as the ultimate sport jacket with a great pair of jeans. Felt under collar. Three button that rolls into two button. Pickstitching details. Chest pocket, flap pockets. Interior pockets. Nonfunctional buttons at cuffs. Interior ID label. Center back vent.Full Bemberg lining in navy with medallion foulards at interior back neck and pockets.Import. Dry clean. Catalog/jcrew.com only. The Fortune story specifically states that the jacket would have functioning buttons at the cuff.
Italian slim suit pant in classic fit
$195.00 Item 96225
This totals $590 not the $640 mentioned in Fortune.
Is this the same "Lux suit" mentioned in the Fortune story? And why would they only make this available via the site/catalog?
In addition they continue to offer their standard suit offerings;
Year-round solid & pinstripe two & three-button suiting with the jacket priced at $350.00 and pants at $165.
Management needs to do a much better job of defining the suit line-up. I would ask that perhaps they rethink the web site presentation for suits but I fear what will happen!
Agree as well with jcrew guy that there is a definite need to offer 2button coats. Variety is a key component to the overall success of the suit and sport coat offering.
douglas: Thank-you so much for discussing the confusion over their suits. I think they are in the right direction, but they need to more clearly explain the suits,and what are the differences between them.
ReplyDeleteAlso, how many will buy a suit without ever being able to see it firsthand? After being in a store and buying several pairs of pants I'm comfortable buying them on line. But if you're a first time buyer only getting thigns on line would make me apprehensive and most likely I'd pass on a J.Crew suit.
I do have the Italian flannel pants in charcoal. Theya re very nice, but not quite as sleim cut as the description would make you think.
I'll second that charcoal gray is actually appropriate for more situations than a black suit. The retro-60s style is interesting, though kind of risky for a $500+ suit. I hate the knit tie and suede bucks with - looks jokey, like he's auditioning for a Strokes backup slot.
ReplyDeleteI think Jeff's right that it's a tough pitch for a mid-price suit from a retailer not known for fine tailoring or even full construction (for years, their men's line worked the unhemmed trend). That said, I'm not convinced that Brooks Brothers itself is great quality in the $500 range, either. They seem to trade on their reputation, unjustly in my estimation. Of course, one gets a more traditional cut at BB; it's hard to imagine the J Crew silhouette as officewear anywhere but in advertising.
Experience is an easier way of shopping for bespoke suits and shirt at Euro Tailors!
ReplyDelete