A big "thank you!" goes to momx2 who let us know about Vanity Fair's October 2008 issue mentioning Mickey Drexler, J. Crew's CEO, is #52 on the top 100 "New Establishment" list for 2008. (Click here for link.)Vanity Fair: Mickey Drexler
2008: 052 0f 100
SPHERE OF INFLUENCE: J. Crew’s innovative helmsman is working on three big initiatives: a men’s-only shop located in Lower Manhattan (man-bag designer Andy Spade is helping curate the offerings); a women’s-collection store on Madison Avenue, featuring the label’s pricier clothing (think $3,000 jackets with French sequins) and accessories; and Madewell, a hip offshoot, which now has eight outposts.
LITTLE BUDDY: Charlie Rose.
CLUBHOUSE: Most weekend mornings he can be spotted at the Bridgehampton Candy Kitchen.
MAN-OF-THE-PEOPLE MOVE: The hands-on C.E.O.’s direct phone number and e-mail address are printed in the company’s catalogue so customers can get in touch with him. He returns calls the same day.
IMPERIAL EXPANSION: Minimal. Drexler, 63, says the only way his retail chain, which currently has just under 200 U.S. stores, will trade internationally is through the Internet; he’s convinced a global outfit would distract from domestic operations.
I am happy to see that Mickey has made the list- that is very exciting news! I also didn't know that Micky puts his direct phone number & email in the J.Crew catalogs (which really is a nice thing for Mickey to do). I will have to look at the catalogs again to see where that is. :)
What do you think about Mickey being a part of Vanity Fair's top 100? Do you agree or disagree with him being on the list? Do you agree with Mickey's views on the (limited) international expansion?
i think it's a good move to stay US-based. i am currently living in brazil and while i would love to be able to shop at jcrew here (rather than just order stuff online for my quarterly visits home), i don't think the style would go over here, or in europe either. what i love in jcrew is the preppy stuff- sweaters, khakis, wool dresses, etc. trying to compete with the designs people prefer in other countries would definitely change the focus. plus, no way would people be able to afford the stuff here in brazil. the clothes here are soooo cheaply made, i can't imagine what jcrew would charge for quality stuff in a market like this. the best there is here is zara.
ReplyDeletedoes anyone know when the madison ave. women's store is opening?
ReplyDeleteMr. Drexler may be a retail genius and his PR people seem to be working overtime. However, my opinion of him is not very favorable. I think it's really unfortunate to see the direction in which he's taking my favorite store. Very sad.
ReplyDeleteHopefully he'll change his views on international expansion some day. A limited expansion into Canada's major cities (Vancouver, Toronto, Calgary), especially with the booming Western Canadian economy, would be a very wise move. There's very little here that bridges the gap between chains such as Gap and high end department store fare. Um, and I'd like to be able to do instore returns on internet items!
ReplyDelete- Chelsea
I'd just like him to return J. Crew to its focus. A modern take on preppy with well made materials. I have a J. Crew coat and 3 merino wool sweaters I've had for 10 years. They're still in great shape. The stuff I've bought recently there doesn't hold nearly as well. And the prices are starting to look more like Gucci than J. Crew.
ReplyDeleteanon @ 11:35: ITA!
ReplyDeleteI feel Mr. Drexler is beginning to alienate a market that has been so devoted to Jcrew for so long and is addressed by no other retailers. Meanwhile, he's going after a market that makes up a very small segment of consumers. I guess it's all about the larger margins rather than larger quantities.
anon@11:35- i totally agree! i have a ton of jcrew sweaters that are from 5-10 years old, and they are classic and in good shape. and some khakis too. IMO, the t-shirts, shoes, flimsy blouses, etc do not hold up as well... this is a big reason i try to stay away from sale items unless it's something that has been proven to me as quality (suits, sweaters). i don't mind that jcrew is expanding into luxury items, once in a while i might even buy one, but you're right, i'd hate to see the quality decrease/ prices increase in the basics that we all love jcrew for.
ReplyDeletechelsea- you're totally right, a few stores in canada, where (i think) styles are compatible, would be a good idea. hey at least they ship to you! no way they would ship to brazil. customs here is ridiculous.
at the end of the day, whether jcrew/ mr. drexler says they care about customer loyalty, etc they will go for what helps the profits. now that they are a publicly traded company (i think they werent before 2006) this is their responsibility to shareholders. its understandable. i'm sure they make more money on $3000 jackets and bags than on selling us sale items at 20% off. either way i'm sure it's a huge markup, but it's really more about image. i have a hare time thinking that gucci, dior, etc customers are going to come running to jcrew, but i think that's not the point. clearly if there are people who drop 20K a year at jcrew, they have is a market for expensive items... brand-loyal customers with lots of money!
ReplyDeleteI have looked through the entire September catalog again and can't find Mickey Drexler's email or phone number anywhere...has anyone else had any luck?
ReplyDeleteWell, which one of us is going to call Mickey and issue our complaints about the website upgrade??
ReplyDeleteJ Crew is missing a big opportunity by not expanding internationally. J Crew would do very well in the big cities in Canada.
ReplyDeleteAs for moving the company into a more upscale market, I don't agree with, like alot of other posters have said he is alienating his core customer base, while trying to attract a client who has more disposable income who do not associate J Crew as being upscale.
Reply to Melissa: Actually no, J.Crew will go well in Europe. Especially England. The people there has a very preppy/eccentric taste. J.Crew ill no doubt flourish in Europe. Besides, J.Crew is already shipping their clothing out to Japan & Canada, I'm sure they'll go global soon. Hey, Banana Republic has . . .
ReplyDeleteAnother thing is, they seem to do a lot of their ads internationally. In fact, I think they are going for that European look at times. Check out that video that's up at the J.Crew homepage. Very European . . .
ReplyDeleterEurope isn't one country, it's many, and while it might go over well in London, I'm not so sure about Paris or Rome, or Stockholm or Moscow. But I do think they'd be smart to folow BR's lead and open in London, for starters. From what I hear from a London-based friend, the store is a hit with the young and hip. Talbots, too, I know has a store in London.
ReplyDeleteI don't remember much retailers flourishing whilst staying in one area anyway. International expansion is definitely the way to stay alive in this day. I don't know about you, but Drexler definitely seem to have that 1940s isolation mindset.
ReplyDeletelbh- yeah that was what i was thinking, i always think france/ italy when i think of europe and fashion. definitely england has a more preppy image, it's probably true that jcrew would do well there. but when i think of the rest of europe, i definitely think of those jersey-knit pants we all hated! and yeah, the upscale jcrew stuff is probably heading toward that european feel. but the basic preppy stuff, not so sure.
ReplyDeleteDid anyone else get the 36 page J. Crew indulgences "newspaper" in today's mail? I found the huge color photos and newspaper format fun to look at. A new way to get my J. Crew "fix" : )
ReplyDeleteWell, you have to start somewhere. Why not England? Once they hit England, word of mouth should be able to expand J.Crew amongst Europe. The target audience is there, the matter is if Mr.Drexler decides to go international.
ReplyDeleteDrexler does not want to expand JC b/c he doesn't think "bigger is better." Gap overexpanded when he was at the helm and he does not want to make the same mistake twice. He has said this in many interviews.
ReplyDeleteExpanding just for the sake of expanding is frequently a failure. For example, Walmart opened in Germany and Korea, but ending up pulling out b/c the store did not fit with the local cultures. Each new market must be approached with much consideration.
I think J.Crew very smartly markets a "perceived European" style about their clothes - i.e., they're catering to what Americans believe constitutes broad European fashion. It's similar to how Ralph Lauren continually attempts to pull off hunting club chic with those blazers emblazoned with the most garish crests.
ReplyDeleteI would wager a good deal of money that if I went to the Isle of Skye this November (and I'd LOVE to do so), I'd see very few locals walking around in taffeta ballerina dresses and cashmere cardigans, or oxford jackets and parlour skirts. J.Crew used that Nov. '07 catalogue idea because they were selling an image to us of how we'd like to think people dress in Scotland. Hey, I adored the catalogue, and would have bought every one of the kilt minis if they hadn't been quite so mini. But I don't believe it's how people dress there.
As for expansion, I guess I think J.Crew would be expanding if it was thought to be a financial boon. But expansion isn't always an economic nirvana, and I think starbucks is only a recent example of a company that expanded too quickly, from what I've read in the WSJ.
On a somewhat related Vanity Fair
note: I think Carla Bruni is very stylish, and I love that she wears flats with everything :-)
No one is asking J.Crew to expand like wildfire. No way. What I'm talking about is testing international waters. Open a store or two in, say England, & see how that comes over first. Honestly, J.Crew isn't exactly doing great right now, so it might not be the best time to expand, but going international might just save it. Maybe it's just because I'm the type that likes to rush, but I honestly think that's what should be done. If you've visited NY, you'd understand that J.Crew isn't exactly taking it slowly in expanding. There are about 20 stores here alone. With 4 of them only a block or 2 away from each other. J.Crew taking it slow? Don't think so. I just think of it as J.Crew expanding at the wrong areas.
ReplyDeleteJeff, I'm not against J.Crew expanding at all, I just don't particularly think they'd appeal to Parisians, for example. And I've never quite understood the logic of opening stores blocks within one another (hello Starbucks!).
ReplyDeleteFirst, though, I'd like to see Mickey put the kybosh on final sales :-)
Although I am one of the biggest J. Crew aficionadas in the world....I live in Canada and feel ignored and underappreciated by J. Crew. I want the J. Crew credit card and the rewards that come with it, but I am not able to. I had to wait months for my early summer orders, which were also fumbled and massively screwed up. They only send me a few catalogues a year, when I feel like I should be recievig them all. I spend a lot of money at J. Crew (probably upwards of $1000 a month), but because I live in Canada I am not privy to all of the benefits and options Americans get. I am very angry at J. Crew, and now that I learn that they are not planning to expand to Canada, am seriously considering boycotting my former beloved J. Crew
ReplyDeleteOh Canada, our home & native land . . .
ReplyDeleteWell, I think one way to get J.Crew to expand into Canada is to well . . . purchase even more from them.
Melissa: I live in the U.S., but haven't received a catalogue from them in months, including the accessories one :-). I never get special coupons or gift cards or anything, even though I am a regular shopper. I sympathize, though, and I'm surprised J.Crew hasn't even expanded north yet. Again, BR has, and seems to be doing well since I know the stores have been there for years.
ReplyDeleteMelissa: I love Zara clothes as well. :)
ReplyDeleteAnon at 11:28 AM: I know the JCrew store on Madison Avenue is suppose to open this fall. In one article, it said it was suppose to open this August (which did not happen.) Hopefully, it will be soon. :)
Chelsea: I agree with you that Canada would be a smart move for J.Crew to enter in. :)
FFM: I could not find Mickey's email or direct phone number either. I will look in the accessories catalog next. :)
Anon at 3:27 PM: You may be interested in the "Accessories Catalog: J.Crew Indulgences" post. :)
Cass: You raised a good point about Gap's issues with expansion (that really hurt the brand name and profitability).
melissa: I am Canadian too, and a manager at JC told me that they believe that Canada will get a store. If it doesn't happen one of the reasons is that our Canadian government charges US companies to operate in this country, like the same way we are charged duty and taxes when we buy goods from JC. I know a manager from BR really well, she told me this; BR, Walmart are having a hard time bringing up the clothes from the US since out tradelaws are so strict, and they charge companies huge sums of money.
ReplyDeleteSo there are alot of things to take into consideration before a company decides to open up stores here. I would love to have JC here.
The other thing to consider is that right now, pretty much every store outside of walmart and costco is struggling because the U.S. economy is so awful. I've already read several places that retailers expect a very poor Christmas season. People aren't buying domestically, and so I doubt many companies are eager to expand right internationally these days. Although I'm sure buying retail space in Baghdad would be extremely cheap :-)
ReplyDeleteActually La Belle Helene, I don't think a retail store could last an hour in Baghdad, haha.
ReplyDeleteLooking for, but not finding, Mickey's email or direct phone number either.
ReplyDeleteJeff: That's because you're not realizing how much those silvered-tweed university pants would appeal to the locals :-)
ReplyDeleteI think I'm going to write Mickey and suggest he employ me to go wear J.Crew clothes throughout European capitals to serve as a walking advertisement :-)
I live in the UK and wear JCrew almost exclusively! I get stopped in line at the post office, church, school and people want to know where I got my clothes! I'd be glad to take some free samples and try more out in other cites...! We have trips planned to Spain and France...Hee hee:)
ReplyDeleteLa Belle Helene: That reminds me . . . Am I the only one who's disgusted by the patchwork line of clothing they've been pushing this year? You almost always see them in final sale later on. Tsk Tsk . . .
ReplyDeleteJeff, you mean we won't be seeing you in this: http://www.jcrew.com/AST/Browse/MensBrowse/Men_Shop_By_Category/sportcoatsvestsouterwear/sportcoats/PRDOVR~90904/99101403719/90904.jsp
ReplyDelete:-)
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ReplyDeleteLa Belle Helene: No, it'll look great on me . . . if I was a clown.
ReplyDeleteYes, because I think it comes with matching jeans...just amazing anyone thought that would sell. I can't imagine a single guy I know putting on this jacket, even if plied with lots of alcohol.
ReplyDeleteLa Belle Helene: Lol, I know exactly what you mean & it retailed at $350 . . . come on.
ReplyDeleteI didn't know there's matching pants. That's ridiculous . . . Were there any patchwork products for women?
On a side note, new items are up on their Final Sale. I think I might get my hands on that Anchor Peacoat.
ReplyDeletechelsea: I completely agree with you. I think Mickey's reference to international does not include Canada. I really do expect them to open stores here in the next year. And I do find it funny that I call him Mickey, like we're friends and we hang out together.
ReplyDeleteOverall I am very pleased with the direction the company is headed, both in the quality of the goods and the design. J.Crew has some outstanding products such as the mens washed favorite shirts, their chinos and the merino sweaters.
Once they have the online end of things in order they will really shine. Hopefully they will continue to have the excellent customer service so many of us have enjoyed.
lbh- i love carla bruni too! she's awesome.
ReplyDeleteI'm surprised how many of the readers here are Canadian! Further evidence that they need to open here! J Crew would really fill a void in the Canadian retail market. Customer service here is also ridiculously lacking (I actually get nervous when I shop in the states because the staff there are so friendly and helpful), so I could see them quickly developing a loyal customer base.
ReplyDeleteMelissa: You can get a J Crew card if in Canada, it's just not worth it. I have one and the bills always arrive after they're due, and the only way of paying is via money order or a cheque from an American bank. Maybe if they opened stores here that would change.
I was in J.Crew in the Short Hills Mall in NJ on Saturday, and I would say at least 1/3 of the clients were not American (this time lots of Asian shoppers; on a prior visit I noticed Europeans and South Americans). So I do think J.Crew could successfully expand into other markets, just carefully. I have to say that those non-Americans were the ones buying the majority of full-priced items--which I fear does not bode well for our dollar or for a healthy Christmas season for retailers here in the US.
ReplyDeleteI like Carla Bruni, too! She has managed not to have her identity swallowed up by her association with a powerful man, and just do her own thing. I just read a very favorable review of her new album--love songs in French, I think. Made me curious enough to think about buying it.
I'm not sure how much success J. Crew would have in Europe, especially in areas like Italy and France, unless their line had a little less whimsy. That's not to say that i don't personally like many of the J. Crew pieces. Having lived overseas for seven years, Italy in particular, I found the styles beautifully yet simply elegant. Think Armani Collezioni and Max Mara.
ReplyDeleteWhen i compare the European styles i remember with something like the Cooper Chino -- inverted back pleats, pepper pan collar, mid-waist ban with flap pockets as well as slit pockets -- they're different. American style -- many combinations of various details.
As an import, competing on the J. Crew Collection level could be difficult because of the price point, even though the dollar is currently low. There are European substitutions, some even designer.
cleo: But that's not exactly the point of bringing J.Crew to another country, The point is to introduce a new style, new designs. There's no point to compete against already established designers & retailers. People are curious & they will try new things. You just need to have the correct mindset when coming in with a new product.
ReplyDeletejeff t: good point, and i would agree they compete in some way that gives them a competitive advantage or makes them a differentiator. I still think that their ability to do well has to be founded on what many deem, let's say as a culture, is stylish.
ReplyDeletejeff t. Columbus, Madison, Fifth, Prince, Seaport, and the new men's only liquor store are the only stores in manhattan.
ReplyDeleteExaggeration for effect, but perhaps I've over exaggerated. You've forgot the one at Rockefeller by the way.
ReplyDeleteAlso, if I remember correctly, there's actually 2 J.Crews around Prince Street. Could someone confirm this?
ReplyDeleteExpanding abroad doesn't simply mean opening a shop and selling the same clothing. There are marked differences in styles overseas (not to mention sizing issues). I am currently living overseas and have been for several years and while I love J Crew, I don't see a huge market for their clothing. You can buy similar items from Zara and H&M (and heck, even Gap which has stores all over the place). I've noticed young people love to wear clothing with readily apparent monograms, motifs, labels, etc that indicate the brand or that they spent $$$ on their clothing (think LV, Coach, Dooney &Bourke, Abercrombie & Fitch, Ralph Lauren and the giant embroidered polo, Converse). People love name brands. I think J Crew is a bit too subtle and that's one of the reasons why I like their clothing.
ReplyDeleteOT: I just caught the beginning of Privileged and also saw the J.Crew Paisley Cardigan... The show kind of looks like it will suck so I probably wont watch even past this commercial break but I like that they are using JCrew clothes
ReplyDeleteNot to mention Burberry, so beloved by chavs that Burberry actually has had to re-brand their image in the UK.
ReplyDeleteI do think many U.S. teens and young adults (I mean 20s) love logos, too.
Under any circumstance, I just re-read the Drexler tidbits at the top of this post, and he doesn't sound like he's even considering international expansion. I hope he appreciates how much time we've spent discussing the issue :-)
Don't know what that show, privileged is, but who else watches project runway? I love that show. I am so ready for blaine to leave, though - his stupid "licious" is annoying as all else. Somebody should look him in the eye and say "you are not this season's Christian." :-)
ReplyDeleteI'm thinking Kelsey will definitely be in the final three. She turns out a lot of great ideas.
Just flipped through channels and found Privileged. You're right, based on watching three minutes, that was lame. Perhaps I'll give it one more commercial break. Wasn't watching anything else.
ReplyDeletejcrew should fix its customer service and its website before considering anything else.
ReplyDeletewe are about to report jcrew to BBB if jcrew keeps canceling items only to make them available later without discount.
who is this "jeff t" guy that showed up recently? he sure is opinionated....a little harsh at times!
ReplyDeleteI apologize if I seem harsh, didn't mean any harm.
ReplyDeleteI watched Privileged - bad show, good clothes (for the main character). Almost everything she wore was from J.Crew... my sister thinks I'm a weirdo.
ReplyDeleteJeff T - Which patchwork clothes were you mentioning in your earlier post? I am confused. The patchwork madras for men and women has been a summer staple for J. Crew for at least the last 17 years. I literally still have a men's patchwork madras shirt from around 1990 that I still wear.
ReplyDeleteNew coupon code: PRIVATESALE 20% off $175 or more through Friday, Sept. 12
ReplyDeleteJulie
You missed the comment from la belle helene:
ReplyDelete"Jeff, you mean we won't be seeing you in this: http://www.jcrew.com/AST/Browse/MensBrowse/Men_Shop_By_Category/sportcoatsvestsouterwear/sportcoats/PRDOVR~90904/99101403719/90904.jsp"
Anonymous @ 11:15PM: PRIVATESALE is not working for me. My order is over $175. I got the message, "Promo code PRIVATESALE entered cannot be applied for this Order.Please verify the condition for PRIVATESALE" What are the conditions for this code? Thanks.
ReplyDeleteI saw the J Crew clothing on the main character (Megan, I believe). Overall the show probably won't last long. I personally prefer Hole In the Wall...lol.
ReplyDeletejcrewjunkie: That's so funny! My husband was watching Hole in the Wall too. He's normally very low key and stone faced but was actually laughing out loud!
ReplyDeletePRIVATESALE didn't work for me either.
ReplyDeleteprobably this code will work since tomorrow. Does it apply for sale? What time is sale section updated?
ReplyDeleteSpeaking of shows with J.Crew wardrobes, didn't J.Crew outfit Dawson's Creek? All I can remember are those khakis and wool sweaters. :) Seems hard to believe that was already 10 years ago.
ReplyDeleteIt is good Wed. through Thurs. and I BELIEVE good on sale and full priced items....maybe it will work later today...(Wed.)
ReplyDeleteSorry...the email said it was good Wed. through FRIDAY...I am still waking up!
ReplyDeleteCode worked for me :)
ReplyDeleteShanee, Yeah! glad the code worked for you. I just posted it without trying it so glad it works:)
ReplyDeleteJ.
Melanie: You are right about Dawson's Creek! The first season they were dressed in J.Crew. J.Crew even had the cast model the clothes for their catalog. :)
ReplyDeleteWhat? Foreigners would not wear JC? Which planet are you from? Every time I go to 5th ave or soho store there is a tons of international tourists shopping up a storm! I send jcrew clothes to my family overseas all the time!
ReplyDeleteHow do you know they're foreigners, and not just people who speak a foreign language but live in the u.s.? There are tons of those.
ReplyDeleteFact is, if there was such a huge demand for J.Crew in Europe, they'd be shipping there already.
I live in Europe...there is a demand for goods like JCrew over here...more goes into selling it over here though than just demand....
ReplyDeleteAnon 4:04 PM: you have got to be really dumb and/or unobservant not to be able to tell foreigners from people living in the US.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteOh my god . . . Lol . . . You guys need to stop treating people outside of the US as some sort of group that has the exact same taste as one another. There will be people that like J.Crew & there will be people that don't. Taste can't be simply regulated to the countries they're from. You can't just be like, "Oh this woman is from France, she won't like J.Crew". Oh, & everyone from the south loves fried chicken too right? My god . . . who knew people can be close minded. Start thinking of "foreigners" as individuals & not just 'people not from the us'.
ReplyDelete