"Thanks!" to Diane who let us know about the Men's October catalog being featured in a New York Times article (click here).
J.Crew Gets Artsier
By Roberta Smith
September 25, 2009
You never know when contemporary art is going to insinuate itself into a normally art-free zone. Last summer the blissfully mindless sanctuary of the J.Crew catalog was breached by photographs of the tall, suave painter Alex Katz in his studio, modeling J.Crew clothes.
Now the October J.Crew catalog has gone even further. Its menswear section includes pictures of seven New York artists wearing J.Crew shirts, sweaters and jackets and occasionally entire outfits, also in their studios, nearly all looking fabulously relaxed and rumpled.
Several generations are represented. At the young, relatively unknown end of the spectrum are the abstract painters Julien Smith and Chris Dorland. The mid-career slot is occupied by Ryan McGinness and Glenn Ligon. For artists of a certain age, we have the photographer Stephen Shore, the painter Billy Sullivan and the Conceptual pioneer Vito Acconci.
The biggest surprise is Mr. Acconci, a poet who became one of the stars of the late 1960s- early ‘70s Post-Minimalist underground, a generation that is generally revered in part because – except for Richard Serra and Brice Marden – most of them supposedly didn’t make much money.
The irony is that much of Mr. Acconci’s early work consists of dark, furtive photographs of him doing one weird, intensely personal thing or another, say, burning the hair off his chest and tucking his penis between his legs in an attempt to become a woman. In his famous 1971 performance titled “Seedbed,” he spent hours masturbating under the floor at the Sonnabend Gallery in Soho.
Now Mr. Acconci, looking unusually scrubbed and combed, is shown in jeans and a mini-check shirt, crouched down by a table, squinting at a macquette as if he were imagining the siting of the full scale sculpture.
There’s always a weird rush when you see people you know from one context suddenly pop up in another, as if it were the most natural thing in the world. And it is becoming increasingly natural. All kinds of visual artists have appeared in Gap ads over the years. Artists have modeled clothes in magazine fashion spreads. Jasper Johns has played the Cowardly Lion in a reenactment of “The Wizard of Oz” in Vanity Fair. Furthermore, the last leader of the intact U.S.S.R. has lent his presence, comfortably cosseted in the back of a limousine, to ads for Louis Vuitton. After that, nothing should surprise.
Clearly we’ve come a long way since the early 1990s, when an emerging artist named Matthew Barney was excoriated for, among other things, having a J.Crew connection in his past. As a young nobody in the late 1980s, he had helped put himself through Yale working as a J.Crew model.
Artists are more a part of society than they were even in Mr. Barney’s youth, and this is generally a good thing, especially for society. They are increasingly accepted as semi-ordinary people with potentially extraordinary contributions to make to our lives. Such acceptance has minor side effects, including appearances in J.Crew catalogs — not for money, but for fun, and probably a little publicity.
It would really be something if the creative types making these appearances weren’t only men. To depart from the anonymous, impossibly thin, female ingĂ©nues who populate J.Crew catalogs might help change more than just the way we see artists.
To view J.Crew's behind-the-scenes of their "open studio", click here. It's always great to see J.Crew bring in actors, artists, and the like to feature in their catalogs. From Lauren Hutton to Liya Kebede to Alex Katz. It makes visual browsing of the pages more interesting!
What are your thoughts on the article? Do you think it's a good marketing technique to use various artists, actors, and the like in the catalogs? Is there someone you think J.Crew should get in their next catalog? :)
Side Note: On a related topic, "thanks!" to Aud who shared another {very funny} link from Jezebel about J.Crew's latest October catalog (click here to read the "October At J. Crew: Pretty, Preppy, Preposterous" post). The line of "Yet another J.Crew catalog has materialized in the mailbox, bringing cozy visions of for fall. That is: If you're thin. And small-breasted. And don't mind looking a wee bit wacky at times." is too funny! And you have to read the comments- some of them are hysterical!!! ;)
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ReplyDeleteI do think it is nice and interesting to see artists in the catalog but it did leave me angry with J. Crew for the first time ever. I'm annoyed that the woman's section did not feature any female artists. As a woman and an artist and a New York City resident I take personal offense. J. Crew could not find a single woman artist to put on a cardigan and take a picture? Shame on you, J. Crew!
ReplyDeleteFor once, I really liked the theme of the catalog. Real people modeling the clothes makes a world of difference. Sometimes the same old models with the same old staring into the distance looks gets old! Good job J Crew.
ReplyDeleteI **loved** the men's catalog for October. The use of real men gave the catalog a completely fresh feel. The only section of the B&M that is interesting right now is the men's! Great new stuff (but pricey).
ReplyDeleteMy first thought when I got through the Oct. cat. was why on earth the men got interesting & diverse & age-spanning "models," and the women got one vapid, open-mouthed bimbette after another. Not even a few shots of the Paris-shoot woman (Vanessa?) to infuse some personality into the pages.
ReplyDeleteJezebel is hilarious. Look at the comments & it is like they came directly from here - complaints about ridiculous sizing & absurdly disproportional pricing.
The difference between the men's section and the women's section of the October catalog was vast. I didn't hate the women's section but I LOVED the men's section. It has a Sartorialist vibe with great looking guys. If competition is being set within J. Crew, Jenna's going to have to step it up.
ReplyDeleteI agree that it would be wonderful if J.Crew showcased some female artists - or even everyday folk for the catalog. I liked their take when they had employees show the versatility of the clothes they helped design/market, but I think that was only a web site spread, right?
ReplyDeleteI loved the Jezzie article because it reminds me of the inner dialogue I have when reading the catalog myself - I vacillate between "what the h*ll were they thinking" to "Eeeee! I must have that!"
I agree with Hillary- it is borderline offensive that J.Crew thinks that men can be interesting and diverse, but women can't. I love the beautiful older model from year before last I think? I am sure they can find some female artists who conform to the skinny/tallish requirement.
ReplyDeleteThe mens section made you want to purchase their clothes, the womens not so much.
ReplyDeleteI wonder if the mens' line have the same declining quality complaints as the women?
The October men's catalog is great. I especially enjoy seeing real people in it instead of models. The artists were a great fit for the current style of clothing offered by J.Crew; they looked like they were wearing their own clothing and not just modeling.
ReplyDeleteYes! Loved the artists in the men's catalog. But they absolutely need to do something equivalent in the women's catalog. Remember when they had that French family (dad & two sons) in a winter catalog? JCrew said they saw them on the street when they were on location and asked them to model. It was fabulous! ANY time they use someone different in the women's catalog it's cool -- be it Lauren Hutton (different because she's older), employees (online was great), the Rehder sisters (models) a few years ago. Anyone remember a beautiful short haired brunette model in the catalog, probably late 80's (I date myself)? She just jumped off the page. Well, it was Linda Evangelista before she became a super. How about a catalog with some older supers? Or have Jenna model. She looks fantastic! At least some cool female artists -- Kara Walker, Eliz. Peyton, etc. Everyone - post your ideas. Have Scott Schulman(?) the Sartorialist shoot an entire catalog. It would be BRILLIANT!
ReplyDeleteAmy Cutler could have her drawings wear JCrew!! Now that would be a fantastic catalog :)
ReplyDeleteJezebel comments are hysterical...yeah, and what IS up with the "kindergarten paint sniffing teacher" dress?
ReplyDeleteI like the idea that they're using their brand to promote different mediums of expression. Other retailers go with celebrities that already have built-in familiarity, but I like that J. Crew is going with people that the general population may not immediately recognize, but will hopefully gain something new by this introduction.
ReplyDeleteLove what they did w/ the men's section and wish they did the same with the women's portion!
ReplyDelete@ casual-crew:
ReplyDeleteYes the men's clothing has been suffering from deteriorating quality (materials, workmanship) for years (although the last couple of years have actually gotten a tad better, depending on what you buy).
On the topic of non-typical/everyday models - does anyone know who this girl is? She's not on any other part of the site except for the credit card front splash:
ReplyDeletehttps://onlineaccess.mycreditcard.cc/jcrew