The "Vol 11: May 2010" edition of "Jack Knows Best" is now available online (click here to check it all out). The following are a few of my favorite questions and responses from the recent posting:Pants: to cuff or not to cuff?I have mentioned this several times, but I would love to see a similar "advice column" for the Ladies.
There are a couple of schools of thought on this one. Some believe that shorter men (or short-legged men) should avoid them, and vice versa, but it's really a matter of personal preference. Some guys shun them because they think they're old-fashioned, but I think they can be quite modern and I also appreciate their functionality—aside from nicely catching the odd piece of loose change, they're actually designed to add weight to a pair of pants in order to give them shape and make them hang nicely. Which brings up another issue: As a design element, cuffs typically work especially well on pleated pants, so there is an argument that flat-front pants should not be cuffed. Not true. Cuffs are an appropriate option on both pleated and flat-front trousers—the only pants that should never be finished with a cuff are tuxedo pants (even if they are pleated). So basically, whether you should go cuff or no cuff is completely up to you. When I do opt for cuffs, however, I usually ask for one that's 1¼", if that helps.
Is it possible to wear madras without looking like you just stepped off the golf course?
Absolutely. Madras is a great staple for spring and summer—it's lightweight and it arguably looks better the minute it gets slightly rumpled. It's also a great way to breathe new life into your chinos and jeans after a long, dark winter (the warm-weather answer to the flannel, it's a colorful way to turn up the volume of your wardrobe—just make sure it's not too loud). The trick is to make sure you give it an urban edge: Look for trimmer, more modern silhouettes (try our tailored shirts or club shorts—both have a slightly more narrow cut) and ground it with neutral solids. It should go without saying, of course, that you ought to wear only one item of madras clothing at a time. If you're not ready to commit to the madras thing whole hog, dip a toe in the waters with a madras tie. The truly cautious, however, can always just stick to the kind of madras that comes in a glass at cocktail hour.
Is there a right way and a wrong way (and time) to roll up shirt sleeves?
Some might argue the only time you should roll up your shirt sleeves is when there's hard work at hand, but I pretty much roll mine up anytime I'm not wearing a jacket—it makes a dress shirt seem a little more casual and slightly nonchalant. There isn't really a trick; I just sort of roll them a few times and simultaneously push them up until they're right at the elbow. Channel your inner Paul Newman and you'll be just fine.
As for the roll-up pants advice... I have seen women rolling up their pants this season, and I quite like it! But I haven't seen too much from the men utilizing this style. I wonder if this look will catch on with the guys.
Lastly, when it comes to madras... I agree that one piece of madras is best. Every once in awhile I will see a person wearing a madras jacket paired with madras pants and think it's too much.
What are your thoughts on the Q&A with J.Crew's Jack? Do you disagree or agree with any of his advice? :)
I think for the most part jack knows what he's doing. But the single biggest thing to remember is know your audience. If you live in NY I'm sure many of the trends Jack is talking about would work well. But in smaller centers it is usually better to be a little more stylistically cautious. Like it goes wear the clothes, not the other way around.
ReplyDeleteCome on guy, live a little. You're not in high school anymore (presumably) and I doubt your peers will shun you if you roll your jeans. But some people will always dress to blend in rather than stand out.
ReplyDeleteAnyways, the pants question seems to refer to trouser cuffs that are sewn into the hem, not rolling up your jeans/chinos. I like cuffs because I have longer legs, and the pants seem to drape better with the cuffs serving as an anchor.
As for rolling, it only works for me with pants that have a narrow hem, like the urban slim fit chinos. I wouldn't do it with my regular 501s.