Thursday, November 12, 2009

J.Crew's Pinning Habit {c'mon now!}

We all know that retail stores, catalogs, fashion magazines, and the like pin the crap out of clothes. Why? To get that ever elusive look that the item fits and drapes perfectly on the model, mannequin, whatever.

J.Crew is no stranger to pinning. Just step into any brick & mortar (B&M) store and find a mannequin. If you look at the backside, there will be at least a few pins holding back the waist of a jacket or two.

A big "thanks!" to Jen who spotted one odd place to find J.Crew pinning clothes! She noticed in one of the images of the Donegal Shawl Cardigan (Item 19247; $148.00) that J.Crew used a big old safety-pin to pin the cuff.

That's right, J.Crew actually pinned the end of the cardigan's sleeve! I don't know about you, but I am constantly worried about sweaters making my wrists look fat. It's one of my biggest issues with clothes. ;) (I heard of cankles, but what is the fat wrist version... wankles?) But seriously pinning the cuff is going a bit too far, I mean really now.

As far as pinning goes... I get the reasons why it's done. In some cases, I think it's fine to do (like for those high end fashion pictures where no one is meant to really buy the clothes). However, I hate it when it comes to retailers using those doctored clothes in their catalogs and e-commerce sites. I find that it's difficult to truly ascertain the items true drape and fit from the manipulated image. I remember purchasing an item from J.Crew several years ago thinking it was a fitted jacket from the image online. When I saw it in person it was actually a boxy shape (or should I write, shapeless). I kept thinking, "this is like false advertising ...jerks!"

I guess this is why I like having a 360 degree view of items– to better determine an item's shape and fit. For awhile, the Gap had videos of models walking and twirling around to showcase the fit of their pants. I loved it! It was so great to see how it "really" looked on a person. (I put "really" in quotes since models, as oppose to every day people, were used. But I will take it!.) :)

What are your thoughts on pinning? Is this something consumers should expect, no matter what the situation? Are there certain situations when pinning is not acceptable? :)

32 comments:

  1. Oh Alexis,now I have to worry if my wrists look fat?! I'm already feeling anxiety! That is so great that someone busted them on the pins, hahahah!

    And question on the new arrivals, will the Cashmere Ruffled Rose Cardigan break my heart like Lombardi? And what about that Midnight Iced Houndstooth? Has anyone seen it? I wish they had it in stock already so I could order it and see it.

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  2. OT:All I can say is that other retailers are not immune to website chaos..GAP is really going insane right now. I have tried several times to place my order and it keeps kicking out the items saying they aren't in stock..the nightmare of all this is that I have to go back each time to their home page and they start screaming at you immediately!! If you've gone there..you know what I am talking about-LOL;) I mean..I may not be shopping there that much if that continues through the holidays!! :)

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  3. Not blown away by the new arrivals..some cute things. I am so shocked that they have yet again recycled the cupcake, brulee, tango...into a now sequined tiered ruffle tank. I mean..don't they know everyone must have SOME version of this by now:)

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  4. Wow I can't believe you caught that! Yeah that is something that bothers me too! There have been quite a few times that I have ordered something that looked so great and fit the model so perfectly and it turns out that even the smallest size available is too large and boxy. I was wondering how it fit the itty bitty model if the smallest size was too big for me! Pinning is kind of irritating. I do think of it as false advertising because it actually doesn't look like that on the actual consumer!

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  5. I'm really irked by deceptive pinning.

    To give just one example: last month I was excited to find a Harper sweater on final sale popback, but was shocked at its size and shape when I received it--so large at the hem that I was sure the size had been mismarked. When I gave the measurements to CS they confirmed that it was labeled correctly. There was no way to tell from the catalog and online photos that it was supposed to be an A-line or swing silhouette. In one photo it was pinned to fit closely and in another it was partially tucked into the model's pants in a way that seemed deliberately intended to disguise the line.

    After I went through this in detail with the CSA, she grudingly authorized a refund. When I wrote a letter afterward, the response indicated that I should shop at a store or call for measurements.

    This irked me because I don't live near a B&M and I don't think that I should have to view an item in person in order to get an accurate idea of its shape. I understand that they want to make the merchandise look flattering in the photos but I don't think it's reasonable for pinning to entirely alter the shape of a garment.

    I do plan to call for measurements in the future, especially for FS items, but I think the obligation should be on the vendor to depict the clothing accurately.

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  6. It is false advertising! Sometimes I wish the catalog would reveal the size the model is wearing so I can get some sense of scale. It's a method that must backfire and generate lots of returns.

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  7. In high school I had a model friend who did print ads for Mervyns, the Gap, Ann Taylor, and various women's products like deodorant, birth control, etc. Apparently pinning with claw clips & pins all up the back to make things slimmer and tucking things creatively is standard practice (just like Photoshop). Eveyone does it. What struck me is she said that while some of the companies were really nice and gave sample clothes to the models, many of them were mistrustful and would cut huge holes in the unseen parts of the clothes so the models wouldn't take them. Nice, huh?

    It's such an easter egg finding that pin, but really not that surprising that they do it. :p

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  8. i hear what everyone is saying but it's standard practice. It doesn't bother me too much. Mostly because the items they are working w/on set are not nesc what is yielded from production. They are working w/samples and mockups in advance at times. I'm also not worried because there are so many of us trying these on and helping each other out. What *is* irritating is when things are on FS and there is no way to try them on in the store because they are .com only. Even if we email for the measurements they are not particularly accurate.

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  9. OT, but am I the only one just now noticing all the colors the Frances cami comes in now?

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  10. Some cute new item online. Too bad the styling horror show continues in the catalog!

    I don't really mind if a retailer pins to make an item looks like it fits the model better but when they pin to deliberately misrepresent the shape, cut, and style of a piece, it ticks me off. For example, if JC wanted their cashmere sweaters to cut in at the waist like they appear online, why not just make them that way??

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  11. haha good eye! :)

    I bet Jen was trying to figure out which bracelets were put together because they look cute and the ugly pin popped up!

    I really dislike when JCrew stores sell items that had pins all over them, it happened to me a few times. Clothes used on mannequins should be shipped back, they are NOT sellable in my opinion :(

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  12. Wow. I guess I am naive - I didn't realize this kind of pinning was common. I'll bet they intended to airbrush that pin out. It is deceptive and so wrong. Of course models are taller/skinnier than average, so I would expect sometimes adjustments have to be made, but Shannon is right, the retailer shouldn't misrepresent the real cut of the clothes.

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  13. LOL! Ohh, that's too funny. Tsk tsk, J Crew. Tsk tsk.

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  14. I agree the amount of pinning JC does to make the clothes look right is a misrepresentation of the clothes. Even if you call for measurements Gigi is right they can be off, I have been caught on it too many times.

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  15. Oh you crack me up: "constantly worried about sweaters making my wrists look fat"!!!

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  16. Pinning is false advertising. Jcrew is the worst with pinning everything in stores so no surprise it happens in the catalog.

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  17. Haha I knew this goes on but that is pretty horribly obvious. I hate the practice -- if you have to pin it to make it look good perhaps the overall design is not optimal. No sense in false advertising if it's just going to lead me to return the item for misrepresentation anyway.

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  18. Yes it's standard practice and in many places is called "tricking." Graphic artists, stylists, ad people, photographers - they are simply trying to make the items look appealing and beautiful. They're in a position to satisfy the client and to generate a sense of the brand. It's false but I'm loathe to give up my back catalogs of J. Crew even though I'm never going to be thin and willowly like the models pictured. I do wish that returns and customer service were better these days. One suggestion: if there is a B&M, make the manager or a CSA your friend.

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  19. Good morning Ladies! I have to say I enjoyed reading everyone's comments on this topic. :)

    Laura & Cloggsy: LOL! I know, I never knew I had to worry about how my wrists looked in tops! ;)

    Lacey & San FranciscoCA: I am impressed that Jen caught that safety pin too! :)

    Hexicon, Daisy, Lady Cardigan, Casual Crew, Chico, Roxy: I hear you all, I hate pinning too! It is deceptive when the shape of the item is drastically altered. :(

    Carla: I never knew there was an official term called "tricking". I heard of photoshopping (after the software) or airbrushing before. Tricking is a way more accurate term. ;)

    GigiOfCa: That is a really good point that they might pin because the item is a sample. I never thought of that. :)

    Molly Darling: LOL! I never noticed all those shades either. I saw them this morning and thought the same thing you did. :)

    Chloe: It is pretty funny that J.Crew missed that pin, despite layering on all those bracelets! ;)

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  20. Like Hexicon, I also got burned on the Harper Sweater -- and because it was final sale, well, I'm stuck with it. I do understand that they want to show the clothes in the most positive light - they're trying to sell them after all, but yeah, don't you think misrepresenting the fit, while it might sell more, also might result in more returns? (well, as long as they aren't final sale anyway). Guess I just answered my own question. I think a "final sale" ban will be going to effect for me on the next go round. (Add that to the shoulda-known-better category).

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  21. I agree with some of the other posts--pinning really annoys me! I understand why they do it...afterall, they want the clothes to look perfect. However, it's so upsetting to try on a sweater and realize that only if you gathered the extra fabric in the back would it look as good. I love J. Crew, understand it would be hard to design for every body shape out there, but c'mon...show the clothes the way they will look on me.

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  22. Perhaps the safety pin was meant to be a fashion statement. I can see the following on the Jenna picks page right next to the Essie nailpolish:

    http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog.jsp?CATID=cat3465&PRODID=prd49080

    I plan on sporting them all over my sweaters. The safety pins and ankle socks will perfectly complete my look.

    Seriously though, I can't believe they don't proof their photos or copy better than they do.

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  23. Agree- don't like the items where tailoring is required from the start.

    I'm appreciating the Melanie Button-Cuff Cardigans all the more!

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  24. I bet the online sweater photo will be fixed within 24 hours of this post....

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  25. The thing I don't like about the picts is that I have found multiple items to be way too short once I get them in the mail - but online they look to be right above the knee on the model. I am 5'9" and I tend to think the models are at least 5'9" or taller - and guague off of the length of the item on them. I think the often size up and then pin away to make the item look an inch or too longer - which makes a big difference!

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  26. I'm like Mack, I pay close attention to the models because I am almost 5'9" and assume the models will be that or taller. I'm also very thin, which you'd think would be helpful in getting things that fit, but no, it isn't. I can never figure out why things that look good on the scrawny models don't look good on me. Now I know. Guess I'm supposed to buy safety pins.

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  27. I love those Harper sweaters! Except for the instantaneously-pilling cashmere part hahahaha

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  28. Well Hexicon and Rats, thanks for letting me know I wasn't alone with the Harper sweater. I ended up returning it to my local store after ordering it. Quite a disappointment. I hate pinning. Just tailor the item properly to begin with or let me see what I'm in for. Otherwise, I'll just end up returning it, and frustrated to boot.

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  29. Gigi, this is exactly why we like blogs like yours so much, so we can see what the clothes really look like! (Um, I'm assuming you aren't pinning??)

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  30. i had a similar "obvious pinning on model" experience with the long boyfriend jacket...no WAY that jacket was not pinned - i waited for over a month for this to be in stock, got it home yesterday , tried it on...and i looked like a box with legs...also, the lack of full lining was a bit much for a $215 blazer...promptly sent back...

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