Tuesday, March 23, 2010

J.Crew’s Jenna Lyons Talks

A big "thanks!" to Raina (of the lovely "If The Lamp Shade Fits" blog) & Matt, who shared the following article from the Style File blog (click here):
J.Crew’s Jenna Lyons Talks Picks, Preps, And The Art Of Personal Connection
By Darrell Hartman

March 22, 2010


Since taking over as creative director, J.Crew’s Jenna Lyons has helped grow the brand into that rare creation: a multimillion-dollar mass retailer with serious fashion cred. It’s not just her staffers who follow her lead—”Jenna’s Picks” have converted legions of shoppers to her mix-and-match sensibility. We caught up with Lyons a couple times zones away from (and several thousand feet above) her New York home base during Aspen fashion week, where she was spending a few days checking out new outerwear collections and the brand’s Aspen boutique.


What’s something you’ve seen lately, outside the fashion world, that’s been inspiring?

Probably the Marina Abramovic show at MoMA. So much of the world today is getting less personalized, and I thought it was interesting that she chose actually to be physically there for the length of the show, connecting with her audience.


How important is it for a big fashion brand to have that kind of connection with consumers?

It’s a necessity right now. We’ve been talking a lot internally about how we can run a large company but find ways to form relationships with people. There isn’t much loyalty anymore, so how do you make people feel like they’re part of something? I want people to trust “Jenna’s Picks,” and I think they respond to it because they’re looking for help editing: There’s so much noise, so many things to look at now. People say, do you really pick them? Absolutely! Once in a while I’ll have a merchant come and say, can you put this on your picks? I’m like, no.


Why carry non-J.Crew brands in your stores?

It goes back to editing, and also appreciation of quality. The Red Wing boot—they do it well, they do it in America. Why try and re-create it? Some things are amazing the way they are. Alden shoes, Sperry Top-Siders. We love that you’re buying our Ludlow suit, but we want you to have the option of the best possible shoe out there. They come with tons of history and brand integrity that we might not be able to offer in shoes.


What manufacturers do you have your eye on next?

We haven’t closed the deals on some of these, but we are looking into beauty. We’ve just seen an insatiable appetite for nail polish, so we’re looking at other things we can do for women. Women want candy. Someone else said this: “Ask a woman what her favorite thing in her closet is, and she’ll pick the thing she bought yesterday; ask a man, and he’ll pick the thing he bought 40 years ago.” So for men’s, we’re looking into heritage pieces. One is an old coat factory, and one is another American classic shoemaker. What we’d really like to do, especially for women’s, is a shoe collaboration where we maybe go to someone like Manolo Blahnik or Christian Louboutin. Gap did a great job doing that with Pierre Hardy, I thought. Women’s is just harder. Would I love to sell Chanel bags? Sure. Would they let us? No.


Let’s talk about your history at J.Crew. You’ve been with the company for 20 years, and your first designs there were men’s knitwear.

I was an assistant to someone’s assistant. I sat out in the hallway and I barely had a desk. My first day was hilarious. But one of the benefits of having started at the bottom is that I’m not afraid to push the brand. I’ve seen so much change, and I feel like I truly know where the brand came from. To me, it’s about evolving slowly. Remember when St. John tried to go sexy all at once, with Angelina Jolie? They lost half their customer base. I also have a lot of experience understanding what it’s like to work in all those different departments, on those different teams. They can say, ‘Oh, I don’t think we can do that,’ and I’m like, ‘Oh, yes we can.’ I’ve done it!


It’s rare to see a talented designer stick with one company for so long.

Looking back on it, there was a time that was sort of rough. I was not sure I was going to stay. It’s funny, because you say “the same company,” and in a weird way it’s kind of not. One of the things I’ve learned is that leadership is everything. I was there when Emily [Woods] was running it and it was a mom-and-pop company. It was really small and intimate, and that was amazing. But then we needed certain things to get us to another level, and had a totally different group managing us. Then we had another man managing us who came from frozen food. Those were dark times.


I’ve noticed that you and [J.Crew CEO] Mickey Drexler allow items to sell out. Why?

The problem of ubiquity—everything is everywhere. You can go to Amazon and get six different versions of the same thing at six different prices. We are very fortunate that we’re not wholesalers. I mean, we are selling to Net-a-Porter, but that’s slightly different because it’s international, which we’re not, currently. But we have a dress in the store here [in Aspen] that’s made out of leather sequins. It’s $2,000 and each sequin is cut by hand. We don’t want that to be hanging on the rack three months from now. There are only eight of them, and we never had that dress online. We’re not doing that to make money. We’re doing it to add a layer of interest, to give people the opportunity to be surprised. It’s so hard to be surprised anymore.


“Preppy” style is often mentioned in the same breath as J.Crew. Is today’s preppy different from yesterday’s?

I have a hard time with the word “preppy.” To me, it’s a way of styling. Classic things mixed a certain way—especially special color combinations—look very preppy. We still have the same pieces: polo shirts, khakis, a great classic blazer, a beautiful white shirt. But what we’ve been trying to do is change the way things are presented. Maybe that little cargo jacket that we would have shown ten years ago with a polo shirt we’re now showing with a little sequin top and high heels. And the thing about preppy is it can be alienating to some people. It’s very coastal and it leaves out a lot of Americans who aren’t yachting or going to the beach club.


Michelle Obama has given you a big boost. Do you wish affordable fashion had more spokespeople like her?

There are very few people that hold the country’s attention the way she does. I don’t think anyone ever noticed what Hillary Clinton wore, or necessarily cared. I love that [Michelle Obama] wore an Alaïa dress with a J.Crew cardigan and Jimmy Choo shoes. And she shops her closet. I’ll notice sometimes she’s worn something of ours and then it’ll be altered—she’s actually had it changed, which I think is kind of amazing—and she’ll wear it completely differently. It says a lot about what works today. And she took a lot of flak for those $500 Lanvin tennis shoes, but I love that she wore those.


What do you think about top designers making “affordable” lines for mass retailers?

What I appreciate about it is someone like Rodarte or Proenza Schouler maybe gets more mindshare from people who might not have known who they are. But I think it’s a little flash-in-the-pan, and the quality, a lot of times, is really not great. That, to me, is for the young little fashion girl who’s obsessed with Proenza and Rodarte and who can’t afford it. For someone who just wants to look good on a day-to-day basis, it’s not a strategy for how to dress.


With the economy, a lot of people have had to do extra strategizing lately.

We’re really watching the opening price points. It doesn’t mean we’re vacating some of the more expensive pieces—we’re just making sure they’re in the right places. New York isn’t necessarily feeling it as much, in terms of our customer base. But other parts of the country are, so we’re just really conscious about how we’re distributing the clothes.


What’s your definition of affordable luxury?

We’ve been working with Loro Piana and some of our Japanese mills to buy bigger bulk so that we can give better pricing. We just worked on a suit that’s Loro Piana quality and under $600. I’m not saying we’re the only ones who are doing it, but that, to me, is affordable luxury.
This was a really great article! I thought the author asked some good questions (like why things are selling out). I also really respected some of Jenna Lyons' responses, like trying to change the way merchandise is presented. Best line was the quote about what men & women's favorite items are (so true!) Most interesting tidbit: that they created only eight $2,000 sequin dresses with the purpose of not making money but for buzz.

What are your thoughts on the article? Any points you found particularly interesting? Anything you disagreed or agreed with? :)

33 comments:

  1. I agree, this is a really great article and it hit some good points. I thought her comments about J. Crew's preppy image were interesting, and the $2000 sequin dresses really shed light on why J. Crew sells those super expensive, limited quantity kind of items. A lot of people give J. Crew flack for trying to come across as a luxury brand, but to say that it's for "adding a layer of interest" adds a layer of interest to the whole story itself.

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  2. Interesting article.

    "Women want candy." To me that phrase alone explains why the women's clothing has gone downhill so much in quality while the men's stuff is still consistently nice.

    Sorry, Jenna, but my favorite items in my closet are a 5 year old leather jacket, a decade old J Crew coat and a 40 year old lace dress (it was my mothers). I also would rank some vintage cashmere and a vintage Mark Cross bag as being in my top 20 pieces.

    I love some of my new purchases, but I know they probably will not be around for more than a couple of years (especially the J Crew ones!) mainly due to quality issues and them being somewhat trendy.

    How about some heritage pieces for us girls? I would love to have something to pass on to the girls in my family, just as some lovely stuff was passed to me.

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  3. I usually have to skim through most of the Jenna articles but this one I could actually stay with and read. Thanks for the post.

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  4. Yeah, the "women want candy" remark is really insulting.

    I believe JL when she says she knows where the brand came from, and I also agree that preppy is a matter of styling, but I still don't like that jcrew is veering into the disposable and trend obsessed. She can package it in whatever messaging she wants, but the fact is quality is down and prices are up.

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  5. Very interesting article Alexis, thanks for posting it. As IRL said it kept my attention alive more than other interviews, there were some interesting points like the $2000 sequin dress (but why Aspen?)

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  6. I'm with kitsmommy; I want the heritage pieces. If I was looking for disposable trendy clothing, I'd shop Forever 21.

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  7. A little OT, but I just looked at this picture of Jenna.

    She is just so pretty without those huge glasses.

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  8. I am with kitsmommy too.

    The items in my closet that I love are vintage or older pieces that have stood the test of time and are quality pieces.

    While most of my closet is JCrew I ironically would not pick any of them except a pair of summer weight jeans from many years ago among my favorites!

    Like IRL I usually just skim the Jenna articles but this one I did read the whole thing.

    Very interesting.

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  9. Yes, I agree, finally an article where the interviewer asked interesting questions instead of sounding like a cheerleader. I think it's a bit rich of JL to bring up quality given how j.crew has cut corners in this area (hello, junk cashmere) but all in all, there were some good points, esp. about the limited expensive items.

    Re: Closet items ... my favorite item is a cashmere suit I had custom made. It'll last forever. I think this could be an interesting post - what one item would you grab from your closet if your house was on fire? (Kids, dogs, and everyone's significant other, the UPS delivery man, already are safe, heh heh) ... well, I'd cheat, because I'd grab my suit but also my CF Astrid, lol.

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  10. I agree with all of you ladies. When I buy something from JC and spend $120 on a mini skirt or a cotton cardi, it is because I want a modern take on a classic style that will last me for a while. When I want "candy" I do look to F21 or other flashier trendier (and cheaper) retailers.

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  11. FYI- the SPZ437 hasn't been working for me this morning...

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  12. The quality of J crew is becoming crap. I just received the Soleil tunic. The silk feels so cheap and is too sheer for even me to wear. And modesty isn't my strong point. $88 + $20 shipping and tax for a cheap Chinese dress.A lot of J. Crew clothing is just as disposable as Target's.

    I would pay an extra premium for well made, heritage pieces from J. Crew. I always check the Collection hoping to find something nice, but I never have luck.

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  13. This is a GREAT article, thanks for posting! I agree with a lot of the other posters, I don't think I want trendy one-offs, and I don't tend to buy anything like that from JC. It's not what I think of, when I say I love JC, either. I'm kind of thrown by that, but other than that, think the article was a good read!

    http://spillingthebeans-emily.blogspot.com/

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  14. This was a great article, and I did not have ADD when reading it, mostly due to the excellent questions! Thanks, Alexis!
    I also though "humph" when I read that "women want candy" comment. No, I don't want candy, I want awesome clothes that will last and last!
    I was happy to read about the deals they are making with high-end fabric producers: the JCrew fabrics have always been part of the reason I love the brand.
    Some things are working. I just bought the Thomas Mason tuxedo shirt for women and it IS awesome: more stuff like that, please JL!

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  15. I agree about the article, I usually ignore the "Jenna interviews," but this one was actually interesting. SC - I received the Soleil tunic as well and had the same thoughts. I would have preferred the print in cotton to the silk they used.

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  16. 20 years with the company? That's worth my applause when you see such dedication!

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  17. I love Jenna, and think she has a lot of astute things to say, but yeah, a lot of us ladies would disagree with the 'candy' comment. Don't get me wrong, I love the thrill of a new sum-sum, but I think what a lot of women are looking for are stylish classics/basics.

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  18. SC,
    Oh, crap on the silk tunic. I ordered it and it just arrived a few minutes ago. Haven't had a chance to open the package as too busy with kids and lunch and now I am guessing the tunic is poorly made/see through and going back?

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  19. I agree with others here, the questions in this interview were excellent. Kudos to the interviewer! I was nodding at most of what Jenna has to say. I am a true prepster at heart yet even I have to admit that preppy was big in the 90s and has quieted considerably back to its coastal roots now. When you look at it that way J.Crew has been consistent in following trends, for better or for worse. It's become a little harder for me to shop there because their stuff is becoming ubiquitous so I appreciate the design team making more unique pieces. Even if they are out of my price range. Thanks for sharing this Alexis!

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  20. Genny did you like the dress? I'm keeping it because it looks so good on me. But I feel cheated.

    And Net-A-Porter has J. Crew entry page up now. No merchandise yet, but it should be coming soon. Sounds like they will just be selling the same merchandise though.
    http://tinyurl.com/y9zv26o

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  21. SC,
    Crazy day. Will let you know when I get time to even open the box! Glad to hear you are keeping it; makes me feel a bit better but if too sheer will go back.
    I bought the silk bonfire dress. Just took it out of the package. Saw how sheer the silk was and back in the bag to return it went. I didn't even try it on. Not worth the $ IMO.

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  22. PS. The bonfire dress I ordered a long time ago and returned. At least the current tunic we are discussing is a print and not solid.

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  23. Hmmm. I think Jenna's partially right, but when I have a candy craving, I don't reach for Godiva chocolate every time. J. Crew isn't exactly a cheap thrill.

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  24. Genny-
    I almost bought the silk bonfire dress to, until someone said it was sheer.

    I'm going to wear the tunic with flesh colored underwear and tank top underneath. As I said modesty isn't my strong point. Once campus security at my son's high school thought I was a student and told me I was violating the dress code. So people are used to my being a little over the top.

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  25. SC,
    Great story:) LOL:)Will let you know how I fare with the tunic.

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  26. This leather sequin dress that was never offered online? Or is she saying there is more than one style of the leather sequin dress..... hm.

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  27. There are a lot of different kinds of candy. Once in a blue moon, I will get a yen for Twizzlers, eat about two pieces and that takes care of the craving for the next two years(Forever 21). For the longest time, I've loved M&Ms(JCrew), but the last couple of years, it seems they've changed their formulations with trying the different colors, and M&Ms just don't taste as good as they used to. Besides, when I used to buy a bag of the fun -sized, there were 10 little bags, now there are only 8, therefore I don't perceive as much value. Right now, I'm more appreciative of the classic charm of a bright, fresh box of Junior Mints(Talbots). I don't know how long this last craving will last, but the Junior Mints seem not to have as many quality issues. Jenna needs to do a candy analysis. Some of us ladies, and I don't include the guys because I think the guy stuff is great right now, have a serious sweet tooth. Handing out Pez with a Crewlade chaser isn't going to take care of it.

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  28. Em has a good point...more than one leather sequin dress? One for $1200 on line and one that "adds another layer of interest" for $2000 in Aspen? "Hm" is right.

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  29. Jenna knows what boys like, but I'm not so sure about girls. I want heritage. I want modern classics. I want to fall in love with pieces in my closet and then finding that something extra that makes it pop.

    I haven't given up on JC. The crystal cardi, copper pencil skirt, and crinkle duponi dress were spot on.

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  30. But like David, I'm finding the pop pieces at Talbots.

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  31. Re: Net-A-Porter - I understand they will also have some exclusives. Can't wait to see.

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  32. David,

    Love your post.

    My hubby is no longer feelling much love for the mens items. Used to buy him a lot. Now, only one item this past year!

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