Wednesday, October 15, 2008

Article On J.Crew's Collection Store In NYC

A big "thanks!" goes to j'adore couture (check out her great blog: "j'adore couture") who shared with us a fantastic article about J.Crew's Collection Store from WWD (click here).

J.Crew Opens First Collection Store
By David Moin

October 15, 2008


With an understated scripted sign on the front door, the first J. Crew Collection store stands discreetly on the southeast corner of Madison Avenue and 79th Street in Manhattan. Yet as low-key as the signage may be, the store is where J.Crew design and merchandising are at their most expressive and imaginative.

The assortment encourages mixing modern items with vintage pieces, uptown and downtown looks, and evening attire with a dose of the more casual in the same outfits. There’s an unexpected character, inside and out.

“People tell me, ‘How about putting up a bigger sign,’ but we don’t want to intrude on anyone,” said Millard “Mickey” Drexler, J.Crew’s chairman and chief executive during a tour of the store with Jenna Lyons Mazeau, the creative director. “In an Upper East Side building, I don’t think big signs are very elegant,” continued Drexler. “The last thing people want to see is their neighborhood become a strip center. It’s our way not to be out there, but to be there.”

He means with something different, and that lies in the store’s eclectic array of Crew and non-Crew products and unorthodox styling, i.e. a jacket with handpainted French sequins displayed with distressed jeans, or a brocade evening dress accessorized with a thin handmade belt and an easy cashmere scarf for a sportier twist.


Along with those items the J.Crew brand is often associated with — corduroys, T-shirts, chinos, ballet flats, jeans, cashmere and dresses — the Collection store presents some higher-end products such as calfskin jackets, priced $2,200, or patent leather jackets lined in silk twill with a Ratti print, $1,800. There are also metallic jackets and shoes in the $300 range, textured calfskin skirts priced at $495, as well as silk Japanese obi belts, Rolex watches, hand-painted Elizabeth halters, one-of-a-kind jewelry, including a vintage “mazel tov” charm bracelet, Lugano luggage, handmade silk flowers (only three per customer allowed), bleached and dyed python bags and clutches, and doublefaced cashmere jackets with pick stitching on the sleeves shown with classic J.Crew cords.

At the heart of the Collection strategy, which mirrors the approach taken by the company’s recently opened Liquor Store in TriBeCa selling men’s wear, is an effort to provide a fashion alternative, and designer looks and quality at lower-than-designer prices
. “The world has become so formulaic,” Drexler said. “You go into a designer store and all you see are the designer’s clothes. The world is full of so many beautiful things. I like to go into stores where there are surprises.We are editors in addition to designers.”

The decor of the store is different from typical J.Crew units, which tend to be essentially white backdrops enabling the products to stand out more. The Collection store, on the other hand, is filled with art, and has a residential feel. It’s broken up into a few small pockets and rooms. At the entrance, there’s a short staircase down, giving the feel of a sunken living room. Stately unlacquered brass fixtures and doors are offset by contemporary elements including bright spot lighting, parchment display tables and goatskin boxes for accessories. Some whimsy seeps in, too, with a soft blush pink dressing room with a pop of neon, the charcoal gray shoes and accessories salon housing an uncharacteristically large shoe selection for J.Crew, including flats with peep toes and feathers, and a boldly striped bathroom decorated with Hugo Guinness prints.

Although Collection products are seen in the J.Crew
catalogues and online, the buying public still isn’t as familiar with the higher-priced offering as the company would like. “People don’t know what we have,” said Lyons Mazeau. With J. Crew Collection, “We have never before been able to showcase what we do,” until the store debuted. “We plan to bring in a continuous flow of special items. It’s not about massing it out.”

Drexler declined to project a sales volume for the 3,200-square foot Collection prototype, preferring not to overstate a new concept before it’s passed the test of time. “Clearly, we are really pleased with the first three days” of business since the store opened Friday, though he noted that you can’t really judge a store’s performance by its opening act alone.

“I wouldn’t want to say the timing was the best,” Drexler acknowledged. “This is not a great economic environment, but we felt the neighborhood needed something more realistic,” compared with designer prices on Madison Avenue that Drexler said have soared so high as to be insulting.
“I think it’s all about character, honesty and integrity of product, along with good value,” he added.

Asked if he is considering additional J.Crew Collection stores, Drexler replied, “We’re not in a hurry to do anything, but not ruling anything out. We don’t feel any pressure to quickly determine where our path will take us.”


I really enjoyed the article and learned a lot about the new store. I have to say that I am looking forward to visiting the store just to look at the new layout. I am also curious as to why J.Crew restricted the number of silk flowers customers can buy. ;)

What are your thoughts on the article? Does the article make you want to visit the store more or less than before? Are you planning on visiting the Collection store (if you are in the area)?

78 comments:

  1. Thanks for the info. and the article. It is fun to dream but doubt I will ever go....to rich for my blood. But happy for those who can enjoy it. I do like the idea of the smaller sign as Mickey described the reason behind it:)

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  2. WTF? My comment is, are those silk flowers the ones that sold out after never being put online? This is a silver cardmember who buys collection pieces who is very upset right now.

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  3. I did see 2 silk flowers on the mannequin in the window when I passed by over the weekend.

    In an earlier post someone gave the link for the actual manufacturer of the flowers where you can order them, at lower prices too.

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  4. wow mickey drexler is full of himself

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  5. Anon at 10:01AM & Cass: In case you were interested, here's the link to the flower maker: Dulken & Derrick's J.Crew Inspired Collection

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  6. I can't see the catalogue pics from the earlier post . . . is it just me or have they been taken down?

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  7. anon @ 10:01: Ditto to everything you said.

    Alexis: Again you save the day! Thanks for the link to Dulken & Derrick's J Crew Inspired Collection. YOU ROCK!!!

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  8. I am going up to NYC this weekend, and I cannot wait to visit! Thanks for posting this article!

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  9. I have never really made any comments on this site about this whole "collection" concept before, but it really annoys me. I am sure a lot of you won't agree with my mini rant, but anyway...

    I noticed that Ann Taylor tried this last fall but I no longer see any offerings on their website. Personally, I thought most of their pieces were very dowdy (Austin Reed suiting, anyone?). The skirt and sweater I ordered were unremarkable even at the deep sale prices I paid.

    Banana Republic has its Monogram collection. Athough, I am still no fan of these upscale collections, I have been completely amazed by the fantastic quality of the few pieces I have ordered from Banana. I purchased one blouse that is the nicest shirt I have seen in a decade. Another cashmere sweater was absolutely TDF! This fantastic quality was offered at about 25% more than the "regular" clothing. Even with this new upscale collection I have noticed no decrease in the quality and number of offerings their regular items. Way to go Banana!

    I love J Crew, but am personally tired of this whole "collection" thing and the emphasis on upscale pieces from them. I definitely could afford at least a few of these more expensive pieces, but wish the company would turn their attention back toward their non collection items - you know the coats that already cost $350+ and yet get mailed to their new owners wrapped in plastic and with their arms stuffed with brown paper.

    Sorry, Mickey, but I think you are losing your focus here. If I am fortunate enough for my household income to continue increasing, I will still be buying the basics here (unless this ridiculous and unwarranted price escalation continues) and will be looking elsewhere for high clothing. And I won't be purchasing gold-plated and 10K jewelry and silk flowers that would only get very strange looks from people of the street either.

    If you want keep making money off of me, how about blowing me away by making me feel like my $365 dollar coat was worth it by focusing on quality (Hint- I'd love to have flannel pockets that don't get torn by my keys). And maybe spending $5 for a wooden hanger and cotton garment bag wouldn't hurt either. Please stop insulting your customers by trying to get them to spend $1,800 on a patent leather smock.

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  10. Alexis,

    In light of the post yesterday, I will apologize in advance for not spreading "sunshine and lollypops" with my last post.

    I really do appreciate your posting the article. I just don't appreciate what they are trying to do. And then having the nerve to call the prices more realistic!

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  11. Does anyone know how long the Collection store and the Mens store will be open?

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  12. Along the lines of price increases, did anyone notice that the jackie cardigan was like $58 last year, then this fall is was $62, and in this new catalog it is $64?

    kitsmommy, I agree about BR monogram--I just bought some suits from them--very nice quality and expensive but practical and not unreasonably expensive. You will not see a $2000 sequin jacket in the BR monogram line.

    I am kind of put off by the completely impractical extravagance of some of the pieces--like the 3/4 length sleeve patent leather coat. I guess even if these items are few in number, they help associate the j.crew name with higher-end stuff. This would in turn supposedly justify higher prices on their "regular" stuff.

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  13. On another note, since there's a JC store 2 blocks from my office, I just popped in. First of all, they wouldn't give me a new catalog, saying they're not supposed to give them out until next week.

    They did have a few new things out. I tried on the silk ruffle blouse--colors are BRIGHT. Very pretty, but this comes in number sizes unlike he elizabeth and is much more fitted in the body. So I would recommend ordering your regular size. I also tried on the cardigan with the bows around the neck. This one was a pass for me. The quality of the wool knit was thin and not very soft for the $110 price tag. I tried on the crystal button ruffle cardigan (has already been out for a while) and in comparison the wool was much softer and thicker. This one is on promo for $88 btw.

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  14. kitsmommy: Thank you for your comments on BR's Monogram collection. I haven't looked at BR in a long time (I feel like their clothes don't look right on my short stature). I will have to go in and give them another look. :)

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  15. I just received two collection piece cashmere sweaters today that I bought online. I was so looking forward to a little luxury and was so disappointed in the quality. I tried not to let it ruin my day...both colors, have, in what is my opinion, a manufacturing defect in exactly the same place the knitting is already seperating from the seam and almost looks like a whole as the knitting is larger and seperating....a bit hard to explain. So much for a $300 sweater that is supposed to be wonderful:( I am sad:(

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  16. Thanks for the Dulken & Derrick link Alexis! Does anyone know if they come with pins attached? Or are they just plain flowers?

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  17. kitsmommy: Just don't purchase anything from the collection. All in all, you're just saying that you want them to lower prices. Something along you wish some "collection" items were not part of said collection.

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  18. kitsmommy: I completely agree with everything you said!

    I'm so tired of hearing Mr. Drexler justifying the ever-increasing prices at J Crew while pointing the finger to other "high end designers"saying "look they did it (and so did we but not as bad) so it's ok". The fact is, J crew is NOT high end and needs to stop taking this elitist position with their own customers!


    I'm beginning to feel like my money is not good enough for them and that I have to beg them to take it! WTH?? Their policies have gotten stricter, less customer friendly. We're made to feel like criminals if or when we have a change of heart and decide to return an item. If anyone asks them to honor one of THEIR OWN policies like free shipping by the red phone or student/teacher discount, it becomes a "case" or we feel badly just for reminding them of it. (It's even gotten a bit stressful at times for many of us trying to get charges straightened out or packages shipped in a timely manner. However, I think this has improved recently.)


    If they want to charge "high end" prices, they better be providing customers with a "high end" experience.

    I have loved Jcrew since I was beginning college (about 15 years ago) and want to continue my passion for their clothing. However, Mr. Drexler is making it harder and harder to justify. I think he needs to remember who his customers are and try to continue keeping them happy rather than going after a small percentage of consumers who are already being addressed.

    *slowly tip-toeing off my soapbox now*...

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  19. On a more positive note, the store does look beautiful. If I were anywhere near the area, would have loved to check it out.

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  20. is the holiday rollout not occurring this week? the closest b&m's to me are at least 1.5 hrs away. i was in charlotte last week and they said they were putting out holiday stuff monday and wednesday of this week. (meaning all by today) i wonder if this did not actually happen, as it seems like everyone's stores said it was the 15th but they're now behind. stores telling people that the new cataloge isn't allowed to be given out until next week? and people going by their b&m's to only have a few new things? anyone know the deal with this?

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  21. Jeff,

    Actually, I have no interest in most of the collection items, but this is not due only to their price. I feel they are unattractive and that their quality is not comensurate with the cost. Truthfully, I wouldn't purchase most of the collection items at 75% off.

    I personally feel that J Crew is trying to serve two very different markets, and I feel that their original market is getting shortchanged. I have stated that I think they are overcharging in other posts. I really would like a lower price point on regular items as they are currently made. I am willing to pay for quality, but the quality is not quite there anymore.

    I only shop at J Crew for the outerwear and blazers. Currently, I own 8 coats purchased over the last 5 years, and the quality has definitely slipped over the last couple of years. I also own two skirts and two merino sweaters. That is it.

    If Mickey wants to do something productive, how about getting the cashmere back to where it used to be?

    There have been times that I purchased all my cashmere from J Crew, but now it pills terribly after a few wearings. I used to wear J Crew sweaters for 3-5 years, but now they do not last long at all. The one collection item that piqued my interest this fall was the Butterfield, but I am afraid to order it, as I just discarded the two cashmere sweaters I purchased last year because they were already shabby.

    Honestly, I would prefer they focus on improving the quality of their non-collection items over going off on this little tangent.

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  22. Interesting article - thanks so much for posting. So, they put the flowers in the store - allow store visitors to purchase up to 3, but I can't buy any online because they are sold out? That's not very customer friendly, is it?

    And I am a fan of how the flowers look, so yes, I'll make one or two myself - but that's not the point. The point is they make them exclusive (with a few exceptions to people that did order them online) to people that are able to shop in that store. What about the rest of the fans?

    I did try to buy online btw, and saw one for a brief second. The photo was there, but no description. When I hit refresh, it disappeared from the page.

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  23. Actually, after a bit more reflection, I think Weab hit the nail on the head for me. (Very articulate and great post, by the way). I do kind of feel like my money isn't good enough for them. I feel to some extent that they (and any retailer that goes after drastically different markets) are saying, you aren't what we want shopping in our store.

    However, I think this strategy may backfire. These collection items may be out of reach of many of their regulars and the upscale market for which they are reaching may not be able to get past the fact that this is still J Crew.

    There is a long thread on another very popular forum dealing with a certain womens' accessory poking fun at J Crew for these items. It went on for at lease 4 pages without one complimentary post. People could not get past the idea of a "mall" store selling a certain price range no matter what the quality was like.

    While I love J Crew I definitely feel they may end up alienating their core customers while not ending up with the upscale market they wanted.

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  24. Great article! I wish I could visit th store in person but that is not going to happen any time soon. I wish they would put more of the collection items on their website, or make a separate website for it.

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  25. Kits Mommy:

    Hi! I understand your points made on the Collection and there is certainly a variety of pieces from under $100 tees to over $1000 jackets etc.
    I just wanted to add as a different insight (in no way trying to change your view, I just have noticed sometimes while reading this blog that when something J Crew is doing does not make any sense to me, another perspective is interesting to read).

    That being said, there were several articles released I believe earlier this year and perhaps fall 2007 regarding the Collection and the marketing purpose behind it. (sorry I don't have the links)
    But from what I can recall, the Collection was a step to offer "unique" pieces in very limited pieces -- something more of what you find in a boutique rather then an across the county retailer.

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  26. *** should say limited number instead of pieces *** sorry.

    I always wonder what compaines marketing strategies are -- (any one a marketing aficionada) Obviously I would J Crew has solid research and figures to base their move into a higher end retail market and develop a line such as the Collection -- but I wonder too how that develops along with such large sale inventories and such.

    I recall once over the summer in my b&m a manager mentioning that next summer there would likely be a much smaller offering of the flip flops in colors and patterns -- along the same lines as a move to elevate the brand.

    The only other thing I'd mention is: I love J Crew, certianly the majority of my closet consists of their clothes, but I also am a very savy sale shopper -- however (perhaps a small change because of the economic times) but not withstanding -- there are certainly a sizeable amount of customers who see the new catalog, order their size across the board and unique, "no one else will have it" (well not as many!) incentive I am sure greatly appeals to them.

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  27. kitsmommy, which blog had that discussion--curious to read it.

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  28. anon @ 2:27, yes, next summer, there will be only $300 jewel-encrusted flip-flops. :P

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  29. The article is wrong... not that it really matters but it is on the northeast corner, not the southeast.

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  31. My thoughts on the Collection idea: I think it’s brilliant! Although I can't afford the high end of the collection pieces, I do own many of the jackets, sweaters and skirts from past seasons. They remain some of my most favorite things.

    I love that collection is a bit more cutting edge, but remains true to classic. And although I love the direction J Crew is taking with even creating a separate Collection group, the 'regular' items continue to be beautifully crafted as well. The Andrea, the Greta, the Tuesday Trench, the favorite fit wool pants (think sweet potato – did you see the inside of those?) - my gosh, I could go on and on. Who else lines their jackets with such pretty fabrics and trims!

    Pair beautifully crafted clothing (that could practically be worn inside out) that remains stylish, year after year, with thoughtful customer service and J Crew just can't be beat. The price points are right where they should be. I don't want everyone to own the butterfield cashmere sweater. I appreciate that certain items sell out. That's why I buy what I absolutely have to have at full price. Soon after it comes out (think Maggie). And am happy about it!!! I feel I get my money's worth at J. Crew. Of course, I love to pick up items on sale. Just this past weekend with their promotion going on I picked up the Andrea for $95, Soiree for $119, dream ruffle cardigan for
    $52,and the Lucille for $113. I was thrilled to be able to purchase what I did during a time when J Crew was offering 20% off with $175 or more, and taking 20 % off Final Sale. When was
    the last time you received a coupon from Nordstrom that gave you 20% off anything in the store – even if you did have to spend $175?

    I shop at only one other store; a small local boutique. Jackets and blazers are crafted no where nearly as well as J Crew and are always more expensive. J Crew does
    have integrity of product with great value. That’s why I’m so obsessed! And happily!

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  32. Ok - This is the story I heard about the flower pins. D&D was going out of business. J Crew bought many their beautiful vintage flowers. Then at the last minute, someone bought D&D or the name or something. The purchaser was trying to capitalize on the J Crew connection without J Crew's permission. So, it was never really a partnership and now I think J Crew has no ties with the new D&D. Not sure if this is true, but I do know for a fact that all the flowers featured in the caltalog were indeed one of a kind vintage pieces. There were only about 9 available and they sold out immediately. Now, J Crew is manufacturing flowers, but not sure if they are using D&D.

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  34. I completely agree with Weab and Kitsmommy. I will also add that if I were able to afford designer, I would buy designer, and not J.Crew...I'm sure there are many people who feel the same.

    I think Mickey should listen to his own quote in this article speaking about designer prices which he said: *have soared so high as to be insulting. “I think it’s all about character, honesty and integrity of product, along with good value,” he added.

    Well, there you go Mickey...your increasing prices are insulting to your customers, and the quality on so many pieces is really lacking...it seems as if quality control is non-existent at this point.

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  35. anon @ 2:36 - probably Purse Forum. I bet this is the thread: http://forum.purseblog.com/the-wardrobe/2800-cardigan-from-j-crew-wtf-346502.html

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  36. What confuses me so much is why are all of you so negative about J Crew and it's quality but yet profess your love for the new catalog, create wish lists, anxiously await the posting of the new stuff, etc.etc. It just doesn't make sense. I thought this blog was for people who really love J Crew?

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  37. While I can't afford collection pieces, I would visit the store if I lived close by. The article was interesting, but there did seem to be some contradictory points. I hope that JC and Mickey don't forget me, the sale shopper, as they work to change JC. I agree with ffm that if I could afford to buy designer, I would buy designer and not JC.

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  38. 4:46-

    I think it's like complaining about your husband . Of course you love him and want him, but he's not perfect.....KWIM? Grab some Cosmos with the girls and complain about the hubbies a bit. Then off for some shopping, and a second viewing of the SATC Movie. It's just girls being girls. ;-)

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  39. 4:46, I think the negativity stems from some long time shoppers beginning to feel alienated from a brand they have loved.

    Some of the comments on the purse forum were spot on. If your company sells a $2800 sweater, then raising the price of another sweater from $199 to $249 doesn't seem so bad in comparison. A way to camoflage some of their other price increases?

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  42. Designer prices may be "insulting" but when I buy a designer piece I get quality (yes, even when it's "made in China")

    There is a tradition behind designer pieces (Coco Chanel 255, LV Speedy 30 etc.) and we pay for that "tradition" and the fact that some pieces are all time classics-as stupid as we may be as consumers for paying the inflated prices...

    When it comes to non-designer clothes however...

    I'll never stop shopping at JCrew because I love,love,love it. I'll pay full price for pieces that I consider a "must have". However, please work on your merchandise quality. I bought one of the ringspun rose tees (size up from my regular size), put it on and went to kitchen to feed my dog. Then I went back to my closet to grab a sweater, the tee had a hole in it cause it wasn't sewn up properly ...I didn't want to return it so I exchanged it in my local store (I really like it!). I don't understand Mr Drexler's logic-" high quality merchandise at affordable prices"? They're neither "as affordable as GAP" nor "as high quality" as designer clothes.

    ( I hope I don't sound bitter, I am just trying to be realistic and give some constructive criticism here :)

    PLEASE WORK ON THE QUALITY JCREW! :/

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  43. I absolutely ADORE J.Crew clothing...my earlier post comes from a place of frustration. J.Crew has done phenominally well with the market of customers it currently has, yet Mickey and his team seem to be looking to perhaps leave us behind in exchange for a *higher end* clientelle.

    I am also frustrated at the ever steadily increasing prices on the merchandise...the cost has increased, yet the quality level has decreased. I rarely buy anything at full price because I just honestly don't think the majority of the pieces warrant that high of a price tag.

    I love Mickey...the way he is *hands on* with his employees and customers is refreshing. I have given him my opinions (both good and bad), suggestions, and praise when a job is well done...likewise I feel I should also be able to express my frustration in the new direction the company is moving toward. I really don't want J.Crew to move into a price range that is unaffordable for me, and I would assume there are many who feel this way...I truly hope Mickey is including *regular* customers such as myself in his vision for the future of J.Crew.

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  44. Btw...if I were to ever make it to New York again, I would definitely visit the Collection store. :)

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  45. I love J. Crew clothes and will continue to buy them, however, I do have many issues with the quality and consistency of certain items. The pants stretch out so much that by the time I wear them for 30 minutes, they look like they are 2 sizes too big. I buy a 0 and cannot wear a petite, so I've completely given up on their jeans. I know all jeans stretch out to a certain extent, but J. Crew's become so shapeless over time that I have just given up. I also agree with sanfranciscoca about the tees - I don't have the rose graphic in particular, but the rest of the graphic tees and painter's tees in the "ringspun cotton" fabric...they are so thin that they are virtually see-through, not to mention that they stretch out as well. My "C'est La Vie" tee gaps so much under the bust and waist that it almost looks like a maternity shirt. The cashmere pills like crazy - and yes, I realize that it is natural for cashmere to pill, but J. Crew's are very excessive. I am also very disappointed in the last few collections shirts - they are all so big and blousy, and none of them fit me. I know I'm small, but I'm not that small. Also, favorite fit looks terrible on me, but that's not J. Crew's fault. :) Anyone else find these problems unacceptable? The clothes certainly aren't low quality when you compare them to, say, Target or Forever 21 or even Gap, but I could spend the same amount on a pair of jeans even from Nordstrom that would keep their shape and fit me for more than 30 minutes.
    Sorry to rant.

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  46. It's frustration on the part of long-term customers that is coming out in a negative way. Let's face it we love JCrew...I don't think we would be so passionate if we didn't, but JCrew isn't perfect.

    I've been shopping w/ JCrew for about 15 years now and nobody comes close in my opinion to their styles and color options but in the last couple of years a I have noticed a significant DECLINE in quality while they have significantly INCREASED their prices. The reason I'm frustated is that I KNOW JCrew can do it better.

    My old sweaters from JCrew lasted for years...in fact I still have a couple...recent sweater purchases look shabby after 1 season. If we spend over $100+ for a cashmere sweater, we should be able to get more than 5 months (Nov-Mar) wear out of them. I've also noticed changes with the jewelery...my most recent pieces (summer) are tarnishing beads have fallen off...I'd expect that from a $5 F21bracelet, but it it is UNACCEPTABLE at JCrew's price point. A number of people have posted about holes in brand new sweaters...again unacceptable imo. What is most frustrating to me is that JCrew should be outraged too, but I'm getting the impression that they really don't care about quality anymore. I'm sensing an arrogance now...they seem to assume we will buy anything they sell at any price. The whole "one-time as a courtesy" customer service approach grates on me too.

    It's a terrible thought, but maybe if the current economic slowdown does hit JCrew hard, it will force them back to basics and back to the old JCrew that we all know and love.

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  47. I find it annoying when people scream "J.Crew is not High End, stop releasing high end products because you're not high end" . . . Uh . . .
    Does that make any sense to anyone? I'm sorry but I think they could go wherever they want with their line. They do own it. If they want produce luxury products. OK, cool. Hey, there's no way to appease everyone. People need to stop viewing everything exclusively from their own perspectives. You don't like the prices, don't buy it. Anyone forcing you to? No. This is like walking up to someone & telling them what not to be.

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  48. Jeff:

    Certainly, J.crew and every other company can be (or at least attempt to be) "whatever" they want to be, but...

    1. Designer brands should (and usually do) convey quality and meticulous handiwork, but they also justify their prices through the aura of their name. For years, J.crew is seen on par with brands like BR--good quality, but hardly "designer." While it's not impossible to re-brand yourself (after all, Hermes started off selling saddles), it does mean isolating a large part of your former audience...and for those of us who ARE in that "formal audience," our frustrations might be understandable.

    2. Most designer brands have a recognizable trademark...something "unique" about their line (even aside from their logo) that renders them instantly recognizable. If you know Hermes bags, for example, you'd recognize the newest bag in their lineup even if it lacks a label and you've never laid eyes on it before. I don't think J.crew has exhibited that sort of identifiable trademark yet...at least not with their designer collection.

    Basically, I don't think they're handling this move towards "the designer end" particularly well, and in the meantime, they are isolating those of us who had shopped their faithfully for years, but care for neither their new prices, nor some of their questionable fashion choices among the jcrew collections. They certainly CAN be whatever they want to be, and CAN charge whatever they want to charge...but if they fail to cater to their customers...

    ...well, we ARE in an economic slump. Let's just say that J.crew really should cater to their customers :)

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  49. I agree with the posts about the awful quality of their cashmere. It pills horribly after only a few wearings. I have a 15 year old cardigan from Lord and Taylor that looks miles better than a J. Crew cardigan I bought in April and wore a few times. Not only does the J. Crew sweater look so ratty I can't wear it to work but at least 4 of the buttons have fallen off. In fact, I have a whole pile of never worn J. Crew items with tags still on waiting to go to the seamstress to have the buttons resewn because they arrived with buttons hanging by a thread.

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  50. Jeff - totally get you. But unfortunately getting this crowd to think outside the box is near impossible.

    With the recent press talking about the change in J.Crew's focus, this group has taken that to mean that suddenly JC is going to change. That wasn't what the Fortune article and all the rest were saying.

    The change HAS BEEN TAKING PLACE SINCE MICKEY TOOK OVER - THAT was the point. JC is just continuing on with this trend that was started several years ago.

    Oh and I guess if JC followed THIS group's business advice, they'd go back to the way thing USED to be. Remember the 90s? Ha - JC doesn't want to. The crap they were offering then (I'm sure all of you that constantly harp about remembering the roll-neck sweaters, blah, blah, blah didn't love it so much as now) wasn't selling and almost KILLED the company. Last year they hit 1.3 billion in sales. BILLION. And I imagine ALL without the advice of stay-at-homes that frequent this blog! Imagine that! :)

    Trust me - the company knows who the silly complainers are on this. And yes, while they may view it from time to time (the employees that post on here are by no means decision makers), they do not take the advice of people that do nothing but complain. I just don't think they need to take advice from anyone on this site. The problems started when it got out that some people in JC thought it was fun to view a blog about people that (supposedly) loved where they work. Then all hell broke loose. The egos of most on here took over, and they actually started living in a fantasy world where they thought that they have a say in running one of the best retailers in the business. Time for a dose of reality.

    They have good people in control of the direction the company is going, and for implementing Mickey's amazing ideas. Do YOU really think that YOU KNOW BETTER than the guy that put Gap on the map, made the business decision to buy a little-know brand called Banana Republic AND create Old Navy? Really? Because that's just deluded. That's what good hiring is for, and as Mickey explained on his Charlie Rose interview, he interviews everyone. The process is rigorous.

    It's known industry-wide that JC is being copied by all sorts of retailers out there. They must be doing something right.

    Are they going to take a hit after this season? Most likely. EVERY retailer will. But do they have a great chance of recovering and doing well long-term? ABSOLUTELY.

    And say what you want about "Collection". The UES store is doing GREAT and is very well-received among the upper-east-siders of NYC. As stated in the article, there are no long-term plans to open more now, and the company has never said they are turning the entire offering into "Collection" at all.

    It's a lot like Madewell. You guys wine and complain about it, but you aren't the demographic they are going for anyway. Perhaps the same could be said about "Collection". Is it bad to appeal to more than one customer? There are people out there that don't need a screaming logo across their chest or their bag to make them feel important. They just appreciate great design and a great product, and those are the customers "Collection" continues to appeal to.

    ROCK ON AND LONG LIVE J.CREW.

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  51. auryane: Actually, J.Crew is not a designer brand. It's what's called a retailer. A designer brand for example would be Hugo Boss. Do get high end retailers & designer brands mixed up. Let me repeat, high end retailer. Get into the correct mindset people. Don't just speak about logos, names or anything of that sorts. That is superficial.

    As for failing their customers, you have to realize that happy customers usually don't say anything. Why? Because they are happy. It may seem that many people are otherwise unhappy, but that's not true. They are but only a handful.

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  52. Anonymous @ October 15, 2008 11:24 PM: Thank you! Can't say it any better myself. I especially like the part about who they are targeting. It's surprising how close minded some people really are. Such narrow & simple minded views . . . ugh.

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  53. Jeff, J.Crew is a single BRAND retailer. To say J.Crew is not a brand is really unknowledgeable.

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  54. Jeff and anonymous 11:24 pm:

    Well done! Although, I'm a "stay at home", I'm on your side of this one, and completely agree with everything you wrote.

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  55. Actually, J.Crew will occasionally sell other brands, like the Timex watches or the Jeep some time ago. The article in this posts makes a note of it: "He means with something different, and that lies in the store’s eclectic array of Crew and non-Crew products and unorthodox styling..."

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  56. Jeff:

    You do have some insightful contributions and I am curious about your point of view, but calling the rest of us "close-minded" isn't very respectful (nor helpful, really). We might not know EVERYTHING there is to know about fashion--I certainly don't--but the exasperation can feel a bit condescending (especially towards some of the other posters who have disagreed with you in the past). I actually often agree with what you say, but not how you say it. I bring this up now...because, as I'm sure you've noticed in recent posts, the bile (not that you contribute to the worst of it) can get out of hand quickly, even when it starts from a somewhat innocuous comment. Can we (and I truly do include myself in this) try to keep the negative comments aimed towards the products, and not other commenters?

    To address the substance of your comment: I might be wrong in this, but when I think of "retailer"...I generally think of large stores like Nordstrom's or Bloomingdale's, that carry at least several designers, who make clothes with individual labels. While Jcrew occasionally carries other designers, I think it's safe to say that 95% of their clothes (especially in stores) bear their own label. In that sense, J.crew has an identity as a "brand" to those of us among the "uninformed" (but buying!) masses.

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  57. Jeff:

    one last comment, than I'm off.

    "As for failing their customers, you have to realize that happy customers usually don't say anything."

    I don't think I ever said that J.crew is failing their customers. I suggested that they might be alienating some of their previous customers with their new practices, but there's a large, reductive leap in going from that statement to "failing their customers." And as for happy, silent customers: true as a general rule (though I personally tend to be an exception: I got out of my way to reward good customer service)...but Jcrew is STILL having website problems. My last two orders have been cancelled, my card double-charged...and all this, within the past month.

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  58. Auryane: I apologize if my comments were harsh. I do tend to be a tad bit aggressive. On your post about Nordstrom's & Bloomingdale's, they are not only retailers, but also Department stores. The difference is that Department stores sell a wide range of goods without a dominant product. Basically, a retailer could also be a dept store, but not vice versa. All in all, J.Crew & stores such as Bloomingdale's could relate, but are not exactly under the same category. Just a little info.

    Additionally, I did not state that J.Crew was not a brand. Instead, I stated that J.Crew is not a DESIGNER brand. Yes, it may be a bit technical, but it's very much true.

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  59. Anonymous @ October 16, 2008 12:06 AM: Again, I didn't state that J.Crew was not a brand. I stated that they're not a DESIGNER brand. There's a difference.

    Also, "unknowledgable" is not a word . . . Lol

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  60. I am mostly in agreement with Jeff and Anonymous too. As far as I can see, J Crew has not really left any customer behind while adding these more expensive options. Also, if you think that the $10 that Jackies have risen in one year is bad, take a look at the pants and jackets in Talbots Collection that have gone up $40 in one year. These price increases are totally in line with the rest of retail. Maybe people here are such big fans that they do not really shop anywhere else to see that this is common across the board.

    P. S. I totally love Collection and have several pieces. The thing I love most is that it is not recognizable when I go to higher end functions. It has all the style and pop of other's designer clothes, but people just have not seen it before.

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  61. I think the majority of Aficionada frustration stems from JC using Collection prices to justify staggering price points in non-Collection pieces. They kept the JC connection with the Collection, but not with Madewell. I'll be interested to see how it plays out.

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  62. who else thinks 11:24pm is mickey drexler? anyone? mickey, did it totally suck when gap fired you? are you going to run JC into the ground the way you did with GAP?

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  63. I have several collection pieces...the ones from 07 were all well made and have worn well. The two collection pieces I have bought this year are very poor quality....high price does not equal quality and JCrew's quality has definitely gone down....makes me sad but that is the truth....I have had many problems with regular line pieces as well.

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  64. Lauren--LMAO!!!!!!!

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  65. Anon @ 12:06am- please learn how to spell.

    Auryane- stop being so sensitive. Jeff is correct in what he says, maybe you shouldn't be on this blog if you take everything in a personal way.

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  66. Some of the comments left last night were both condescending and arrogant. It is possible to state a differing viewpoint without being rude.

    I don't want them to bring back the styles they made when I was in high school. I just want their current, well-designed items out of fabrics that do not pill after one wearing, with seams that lie flat, and buttons that don't fall off in the dressing room.

    I would not be opposed to their collection focus if I did not see a significant decline in their other items. However, I hardly buy anything there because of quality issues.

    Right now, I think they are trying to serve two distinctly different markets and doing neither particularly well.

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  67. I wonder why people have to get so aggressive making their viewpoint known it is only about clothes.

    J Crew is not high end, it is right there with BR. Their quality has gone down, but then so have other stores, I see it everywhere at all price points.

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  68. It's like, the quality doesn't have to be there, because the expectation is that you'll just ditch piece X for piece Y when the new stuff rolls out.

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  69. i'm serious. gap was an american staple and mickey did some admittedly good things with the brand but then ran it into the ground. gap still cannot recover. and look at j crew, declining quality, ever higher price points, same thing that happened to gap under mickey's watch.

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  70. Lauren or anyone else,

    When did Mickey leave GAP and start at JCrew....thanks...

    J.

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  71. Anon @ 9:37am--GOOGLE it

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  72. We aren't asking for JCrew's old styles back, I think we are all pleased with current offerings...this is about quality. We want JCrew's old quality back!

    When I first started shopping at JCrew, I didn't mind paying full price for a sweater because I was CONFIDENT that it would last me a couple of seasons. Now it's a totally different mindset...they come out with a sweater, I love the style, but I KNOW it's going to pill. I am not willing to pay full price for a sweater that I know is going to pill after a couple of wearings. It then becomes a head game...at what pricepoint am I willing to pay for a sweater I love, but I know is only going to last 1 season? It's that lack of CONFIDENCE in the product that is currently preventing me from spending more at JCrew.

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  73. jeff, from dictionary.com:

    unknowledgeable

    adjective
    unaware because of a lack of relevant information or knowledge; "he was completely ignorant of the circumstances"; "an unknowledgeable assistant"; "his rudeness was unwitting" [syn: ignorant]

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  74. Yes, an almost $300 cashmere sweater...should not come with a defect!

    No matter what company it comes from!

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  75. RE: ANON 11:24pm
    I agree with the last paragraph where that J Crew employee, eh hem, or whomever that was posted as anon, states that Madewell isn't geared toward the typical demographic purchaser of J Crew or perhaps a lot of time even Collection. I agree there is room for varying markets. Who really cares if they have a collection store and who cares that a lot of it looks like some over-priced crap! There are many special albeit "normal looking" collection pieces that are fabulous--but some are SO over-the-top! I think the average J crew buyer felt threatened when these appeared online. Like what IS that?? And they couldn't help talking about it with pure disgust and CONCERN for that matter. You know what, let the upper east New Yorkers purchase that bloody coat or that plastic looking snake blazer to their hearts content (I honestly have a hard time believing these were the expensive items purchased). I am sure they were relatively normal but beautifully made and fabulous, pricey pieces. Just don't let the average, typical, call us "homemakers" (like it is a dirty word-but we are so much more than that.) Whatever label you want to attach, don't let us down on the product we have come to love and the quality we deserve. We are asking that you please look into quality control as it is obviously declining while the prices continue to rise. I think everyone on this board (even those that seem completely UNREASONABLE) will agree that prices will go up a few bucks on items just due to normal inflation but I see nothing wrong even when the "complainers" referred to in various posts are making valid points about the decline in quality while prices are raised in some cases a huge percentage (unlikely only due to inflation amounts). These are the areas that must be taken seriously as the CORE customer (that made J Crew what it is today) SHOULD remain the focus. Not the small % of the market that purchases collection. I don't think anyone on here complaining CARES about the higher priced collection items or the new store etc. as long as it doesn't ultimately effect THEM! I think they worry that J Crew is going to price them out of the market--the very market that helped make J Crew the RETAIL giant it has become--end of story, plain and simple. Straight up advice that I hope ANON 11:24p will take and not ignore. It simply is not an unreasonable expectation.

    Jeff-thanks for apologizing. Your tone is what gets you in trouble every time on this board. It's not WHAT you say but HOW you deliver it.

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  76. I purchase my first J Crew item back in the early 1990's. The quality has gone down hill since Drexler took over.

    An example is the quality of the men and women cashmere sweater. It is now inferior to the one made 5 years ago in both construction and yarn quality. Anyone who own J Crew cashmere sweater that are at least 5 years old can attest to this.

    Don't be fool by the marketing machine.

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  77. covert5 -

    Paragraphs are your friend. :-)

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Dear J.Crew Aficionadas & Aficionados: Please feel free (and encouraged) to share your thoughts and opinions. :) However, please note that this is still a personal blog. So comments that are considered inappropriate (e.g. obscene, racist, homophobic, personal attacks, rude, and just plain mean) will be removed.

And now back to J.Crew! :)