Showing posts with label menswear view. Show all posts
Showing posts with label menswear view. Show all posts

Monday, September 7, 2009

J.Crew's Jack {he knows best}

There's an article over at the Examiner (click here) that asks the age old question, "White after Labor Day?" and J.Crew's Jack comes to the rescue! ;)

White after Labor Day, guys? Jack knows best
By Brandon Roberts

September 7, 2009


Surely this Labor Day, it is the question on every guy's mind: will I be able to wear my white jeans tomorrow? Tradition says no, but whose tradition? And don't some traditions fall out of fashion with time? For example, men used to wear powdered wigs- haven't seen that much lately (and Elton John doesn't count on this one). Before shelving those white jeans or khakis-- along with your beach-filled memories of summer 2009 now that school is back in session, the days grow shorter, and the bittersweet rusting of the leaves (and extra chore of raking them) is just around the corner-- consider the wisdom of J. Crew's men's stylist, Jack, on the subject. The J.Crew web site features advice from this stylish dude Jack (surname unknown), and since J.Crew would know, here is the definitive word on the subject, from the web site:


"Can I wear white jeans before memorial day? Absolutely. White or wheat-colored denim works year-round, despite what the old rule says. As soon as it gets colder, wear them with sturdy boots (right now I'm particularly attached to my Red Wing® boots) and heavy-gauge sweaters or a great tweed sportcoat."


So there it is... now breathe a collective sigh of relief, and enjoy the rest of your Labor Day.

— — — — —
If you have a question you want to ask Jack, send an email with your question to jack@jcrew.com. The following is Jack's complete advice at JCrew.com (click here & here):

How long should my pants be?
It's personal preference. It's more modern to let your hem graze the top of your shoes without any break, but there are plenty of men who prefer to go longer and that's fine, too. (If you want your ankles—or socks—to be covered when you walk or stand, I recommend the longer length with a slight break.) Really, the most important thing is how the pants fit overall.


Where can I wear a linen suit?
Wherever (and whenever) the weather is warm—a good rule of thumb is Memorial Day through Labor Day, but if you find yourself in the tropics in the middle of winter, by all means break out the linen. The most important thing is to make sure it fits properly (there's nothing worse than an ill-fitting linen suit). Another thing to remember: the wrinkles are supposed to be there, so don't go too crazy with an iron.

When do I wear a crewneck sweater versus a V-neck?
There's no hard-and-fast rule—one isn't considered dressier than the other, so it's entirely up to you. Some guys prefer the way a V-neck sweater looks when they're wearing a tie, but I happen to think that the shirt/tie/crewneck combo is pretty sharp, too. Either way, just make sure you keep that collar tucked in.

How often should I wash my jeans?
It all depends on the kind of denim and how quickly you want your jeans to age. With raw or rinsed denim, your best bet is to wear them for at least three months before washing them (some denim enthusiasts would actually recommend a minimum of six months wear before washing, and I know some purists who don't ever wash theirs). When you do decide to launder your jeans—and I recommend doing so as infrequently as you can possibly stand—turn them inside out and handwash them in cold water. I always hang my jeans to dry, but if you want to throw yours in the dryer, I suggest using the lowest heat setting possible.

What should I wear to a wedding?
Get an idea of what the groom is wearing—if he's not wearing a tux, then neither should you. As a general rule, you can't go wrong with a tropical-weight suit in either solid navy or charcoal grey. Pair it with a white broadcloth shirt and a dark-colored tie and you're good to go. (During the summer, you can trade darker suits for khaki or other light colors.) However, if the invitation reads "black tie", be prepared to break out the penguin suit.

Two buttons or three buttons?
It depends on your build. A three-button jacket can help a tall guy look more balanced, while two-button jackets can actually make short guys look less so. Both styles are considered equally wearable, so choose whichever looks best on you.

What's the difference between a sportcoat and a blazer?
Both blazers and sportcoats are similar in design to suit jackets, but they're meant to be worn as separates. People often use the two terms interchangeably, but traditionally speaking, the word blazer refers specifically to wool or cashmere jackets that are solid navy in color. Sportcoats are slightly more casual and are usually made in a wider range of fabrics and colors (they can also have patterns, like stripes or herringbone).

How can I make my clothes last longer?
For starters, take care of them when you're not wearing them. Invest in some good wooden hangers for your closet (the wire ones from the dry cleaner that say "We heart our customers" don't count), and hang your clothes up as soon as you take them off. A good wooden hanger will keep the shape and lines of your clothes intact, which means they'll look better when you do wear them and will last longer.

Can I wear white jeans before memorial day?
Absolutely. White or wheat-colored denim works year-round, despite what the old rule says. As soon as it gets colder, wear them with sturdy boots (right now I'm particularly attached to my Red Wing® boots) and heavy-gauge sweaters or a great tweed sportcoat.

If I am going to buy one pair of jeans, what should I get?
While I appreciate all kinds of denim, I happen to think that the most authentic kind is rinsed or raw (it's the ultimate DIY project). Buy a pair that's dark and clean and break them in on your own—that way, every whisker, crease and threadbare spot is totally unique.

I have to wear a suit to work every day. How can I add some variety to my look?
Not with your tie—please, no funky ties. Ever. I like to keep my shirt/tie/suit combo timeless and crisp and suggest you do the same. If you really feel like you need to mix it up, try bright or patterned socks (or no socks at all). You can also play with the silhouette of your suit: try a slimmer cut or change up the number of buttons on your jacket—it's a subtle adjustment, but it'll make a big difference.

What's the best way to wear a cardigan?
I love it as an alternative to a sportcoat, if the occasion is right (think lunch with your in-laws, not a job interview). It also works with a tee shirt and jeans for a more casual look.

Button-down collar or point collar?
I tend to save point-collar shirts for nicer occasions, like weddings and interviews, and wear my button-downs for everything else (originally a shirt for sports, it still has a more casual feel). That said, I happen to be a big fan of wearing button-downs with suits (with or without a tie) for an everyday, laid-back look that works for just about any occasion.
— — — — —
I find Jack's advice at to be fun & good sense (for the most part). Although, I don't know about the advice for how often to clean jeans. Waiting 3 to 6 months to wash them sounds ridiculous (as in gross) to me.

What are your thoughts on Jack's advice? Do you agree with waiting 3 to 6 months to wash your jeans? Do you think it's a clever marketing move on J.Crew's part? Do you think the advice section is thoughtful or obvious? :)

Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Behind the Seams: Frank Muytjens

"Thanks!" to the author Cory (at Valet), as well as Matt & J.Crew Guy in Canada, who shared the following great article from Valet (click here).

Behind the Seams: Frank Muytjens
Meet the Man Responsible for the New J.Crew

By Cory Ohlendorf

August 3, 2009


Last year, when Frank Muytjens was appointed as J.Crew's Vice President of Men's Design, the company was on the cusp of a cultural change. They had been updating their men's line, improving quality and style but were hoping to elevate the brand during this renaissance of American menswear. Muytjens was the right man for the job. He had been designing at J.Crew for four years, but previous gigs at Ralph Lauren, first at the rugged RRL and later at the more refined Blue Label, also prepped the Dutch-born designer for J.Crew's new place your wardrobe—where suits mix with Red Wing boots or a Mister Freedom T-shirt is topped with a classic Barbour jacket. We caught up with Mr. Muytjens to learn more about the man behind the brand and what to look for this fall.


You were born and raised in the Netherlands and ended up designing for two of the most quintessentially American companies...

Growing up, I was always drawn to the historic part of American culture. I had this romantic idea of crossing the US in a camper, visiting the national parks and other iconic places. But it wasn't until I visited New York for the first time, in 1985, that I fell in love with the city and really got interested in all things Americana. I had just graduated from college, and I remember being heavily influenced by that trip. I remember in my final project I used dollar coins as buttons on sportcoats, and I enlarged parts of dollar bills, using them as Warhol-esque graphic prints on old army sweatshirts.


So before you discovered Americana, what were some of your influences growing up?

It was just as punk and new wave were about to blow up and show their influence in fashion. Everything that came from London seemed so new and innovative. Fashion and music magazines like The Face and ID—and later Vanity and Per Lui—were a huge influence on me.

When did you know you wanted to be a designer?

I started out as a fashion illustrator in college. I always thought the works of Antonio and Mats were very inspiring, but gradually I realized I enjoyed designing, pattern-making and sewing much more. It was just a natural evolution.


Describe your design process ...

It's a combination of thinking about who our guy is, what music he listens to, what his house looks like. We build a story. I find inspiration in everything from street fashion to old films. I tend to immerse myself with materials like tears from books and magazines, fabric swatches, vintage pieces, movies, old album covers and found objects. The line really grows from there.


Your experiments with collaborations have been really successful. Have those been important to push the men's line forward?

Yes, I think they perfectly represent our aesthetic. For us, it was about building relationships with brands who have a story to tell, brands with an old world feel, brands who have been doing what they've been doing for over a century and haven't change their product—or logo, for that matter—because of trends.


And how do they come about?

Most of the brands we now carry are brands that have been personal favorites for many years. The team and I have always been huge fans of Red Wing, Russell Moccasins, vintage Levis and Alden. We've been wearing them forever ourselves, so it was an easy connection for us to make.


Any upcoming ones you'd like to tell us about?
I'm really exited about Inverallan, a traditional Scottish knitwear company specializing in Aran fishermen's sweaters. We're doing a limited edition collaboration with them for this fall.


J.Crew really excels at those small changes and tweaks to classics which make them seem modern yet timeless. Would you say that's the right read?

Absolutely! To us it's about being subtle and understated, giving the guy garments which only will get better with age, pieces you can wear more then one season. I think in menswear you have to be consistent and persistent.


What are your thoughts on the article? Were there any points made that you found particularly insightful? What are your thoughts on J.Crew's menswear, since Frank Muytjens took over? Have you noticed any differences (for the better or worse)?

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Menswear View: The Get – White Street Suit?

Note: Doug regularly guest blogs on J.Crew for men (the "menswear view")- which is wonderful! :) (Thank you Doug!) The following is his post:

As part of their new arrivals for October, J.Crew has added a Charcoal Grey Herringbone suit. At $570 the “slimmest, trimmest silhouette yet” has many of the details that have been heavily promoted elsewhere – felt collar, pick stitching and functioning buttonholes. Speaking of buttonholes, I may be in the minority but isn’t six a bit excessive? Typically three or four are the norm.

So what do you think of this latest addition to the J.Crew suit collection? Grey (or variations of it) seems to be the only color available. How about Glen Plaid or Brown? Does this latest offering entice you at all? Let me know what you think.

Monday, September 22, 2008

Menswear View: The Get – Hoodie or Pullover.

Note: Doug regularly guest blogs on J.Crew for men (the "menswear view")- which I think is wonderful! :) (Thank you Doug!) The following is his post:

Few things are as comfortable as a warm sweatshirt or as they are commonly referred to around planet J.Crew the Hoodie or Pullover. So which do you prefer? Both are incredibly soft and offer excellent resistance to the Fall chill. My choice would be the Shawl collar pullover in Navy.
What are your thoughts on the color pallet? Would you like to see greater variety? Does the price make you inclined to wait for a discount, coupon or either to appear in the sale section of J.Crew website?

Monday, September 8, 2008

Menswear View: Inclement weather– which will you choose?

Quick Note: Doug will regularly guest blog on J.Crew for men (the "menswear view")- which I think is wonderful! :) (Thank you Doug!) The following is his post:

Perhaps it’s Tropical Storm Hanna that has me thinking about trench coats and slickers. Personally I’m a big fan of the Sutherland trench in blue or British Tan. The Mackintosh is gorgeous but at $800 I had better be able to wear it every day. I’m not particularly fond of the belted Harrison Trench – a bit too stuffy for me. The Sellwood closely resembles the raingear my 8 year old twins have and to be honest it looks much better on them.
So – which is it for you? Any thoughts on the style and fit? How about the color selection?