J.Crew's Frank Muytjens is getting a lot of press lately! It's nice to see him get his well-deserved acknowledgments from the fashion community.Grand Fashion: An interview with J.Crew's Frank Muytjens
By Todd Truman
April 27, 2010
...Born in the Netherlands, Mr.Muytjens long held a strong affinity for Americana. After graduating from college, Frank spent eight years at Ralph Lauren as Design Director of Outwear, first at RRL and then onto the Blue Label. When the opportunity came along for design within a broader collection at J.Crew, he jumped on it.
He had been designing for four years as Senior Design Director of women's and as Design Director for outerwear and pants when in 2008, he became Head of Men's Design.
I recently had the opportunity to exchange some questions and answers with Frank Muytjens:
Todd Truman: You've done a wonderful job turning America on to its own Americana. Will those re-discoveries continue to play a role in upcoming J.Crew offerings?
Frank Muytjens: They will continue to play a role in our collections. I think authentic, cultural references give J.Crew a foundation to expand upon. At the same time i think it is important to keep our eyes open and let other influences play a role in the design process. At the moment, I'm looking at the Danish painter, Vilhelm Hammershoi and the works of Belgian architect, Vincent Van Duysen. I think that mix of different cultural references is interesting and creates distortion, and that's what we're after.
TT: We have a J.Crew store in Grand Rapids, Michigan where, for men, slim fits are now becoming a part of the landscape. When the trend begins to move away from fitted suits and shirtings, wouldn't the obvious backlash be a return toward a more relaxed fit?
FM: I think that's part of the ever changing landscape...but I think for Men's it will be gradually. I think it took a decade to get guys to buy a two button blazer instead of a three button...
TT: I see a lot of 50s,60s and 70s influence in J.Crew. What are some other sources of reference for you that may not be so obvious?
FM: We're always looking at vintage army/navy surplus and we love the functional details. They serve a purpose and there's a lot of thought behind them because they need to be functional. We pay a lot of attention to the details like vintage buttons, stitch colors and interior details.
TT: The Midwest may be one of the last regions to shake off the recession. Folks here might be more likely to forage through their closets first before parting with precious dollars on something new. But that's the beauty, I think, of your "Secret Wash" shirts. They are almost timeless. And isn't that the desired effect?
FM: I think guys like old stuff, things with a patina, weathered pieces with a history. If you ask a guy what he loves most in his closet, he will show you his most tattered leather jacket or cashmere sweater with the hole in the elbow. We're trying to give him a piece of his heritage which he can wear for more than one season, and it will only get better with age. ...
As for the article... I love that he & his team are creating pieces that will have staying power. It's great to own items that just get better with age. And the quote about what guys love in their closet seemed to really resonate with me too. :)
What are your thoughts on the interview? Disagree or agree with any of the points made? Did it take a long time to convert you (or the man in your life) from 3 to 2 buttons? Is the item you cherish the most, have the most history?
I can't help but thinking...is it when women's J crew design became more trendy and disposable? After he left women's department? Was it him really behind 2007 vision, that many JCAs miss?
ReplyDeleteFrank is the man! The men's line continues to be my go to for influence and what to wear.
ReplyDeleteI agree that it's only a matter of time before the fitted looks changes, but it will takes years for this. Could the single pleat pant be the first indication?
Ji, you may be on to something... whenever Alexis posts about Frank, several JCA's usually comment that they wished he was on the women's design side. Maybe that's what us JCA's that miss the way things used to be really miss... Frank! I'd be interested to hear what others think.
ReplyDeleteCame across this today from yahoo finance - "On April 12, 2010, the Compensation Committee of the Board of Directors (the "Committee") of J.Crew Group, Inc. (the "Company") determined that it would make discretionary cash payments to certain senior officers of the Company (including the Named Executive Officers), whose participation in the Company's fiscal year 2009 annual cash incentive plan had been suspended at the beginning of the fiscal year in light of the then challenging economic conditions. Given the Company's substantial outperformance relative to goals during fiscal 2009, the Committee determined these payments were appropriate in recognition of both individual and Company performance. The amount awarded to each of the Named Executive Officers is as follows: Mr. Drexler - $2,000,000; Mr. Scully - $250,000; Ms. Gardner - $425,000; Ms. Lyons - $325,000; and Ms. Wadle - $200,000.
ReplyDeleteIn addition, the Committee named Jenna Lyons as Executive Creative Director, effective immediately. In this role, Ms. Lyons will continue to be eligible to participate in the Company's executive compensation programs at the same levels that applied to her as Creative Director."
No love for Frank? Or is he not an Executive Officer?