A Package Store for PreppiesBy Mike Albo
September 15, 2008
THE new J. Crew’s men’s boutique on the corner of West Broadway and White Street used to be a busy bar, often crowded with loud, drunk TriBeCans. I think I went there once or twice in the 1990s to accompany one of my women friends while they tried to pick up bankers. Because it was the ’90s, I was probably wearing some baggy secondhand gas-station attendant shirt and pair of bootleg cords, refusing to look put together because I didn’t want to appear preppy. ...
Near the door was a $1,200 plaid mackintosh that looked tasteful and durable. Next to it was a $125 English wool pinstripe blazer and accompanying vest. Carl tried on a dark blue rain slicker ($800), which looked crisp and professional on him, while I coveted a $325 Yorkshire tweed jacket with pleated pockets, wishing I had married a loud, drunk banker so I could buy it. ...
It does not function as a bar anymore, but you get the sense the store wants you to feel buzzed enough to forget the dismal economy and slap down your debit card. It offers upscale impulse buys like Aesop grooming products, John Derian decoupage paperweights, vintage vinyl albums from New Order and Devo, and used books like “Rabbit Redux” ($18) and “City of Night” ($5). Shirts hang on the racks with the sleeves wrinkled and rolled up as if they are at happy hour, including some nice basic button-downs for $59.50, and an attractive yellow plaid check for $68. ...
J.Crew’s selections come in an array of prices that keep your eye tempted: a $795 motocross leather jacket was near a $58 plaid wool cap, close to a $34.50 gray henley. I was especially drawn to a long, shawl-collar cardigan with pockets and big buttons made in a gray sweatshirt material ($78). It was a smart hybrid probably fashioned by some budding designer at the brand who will to start her own line next year.
Still, some items were so outrageously preppy, I felt my original odium for the style rising in my throat like bad grain-alcohol punch. A series of knit ties in bright colors, $49.50, brought to mind a tragically alcoholic dorm mate from college on his way to a football game, and a quilted patchwork tote, for $850, was something his equally blotto girlfriend would use to carry around her pumps and kegger go-cup.
Some items were just plain outrageous, preppy or not. A pair of $245 jeans with patches sewn all over them hung proudly in the center of the front room. (Aren’t we done with the whole fake-distressed trend?) A small glass case at the front of the store displayed vintage watchbands, belt buckles, aviators and pencils that have been chewed by the celebrated TriBeCan writer Max Blagg on sale for $25 each. Yes, that’s right —chewed pencils for $25. This is mostly a promotional gimmick — the store will soon offer copies of his book “What a Man Should Know” — but I couldn’t help but think of this as a trend, and imagined the poor, spidery Joyce Carol Oates sitting at an assembly line, gnawing away.
Carl and I stopped in front of a stack of vintage V-neck sweater vests, which were decorated with bright snowflakes and squares around the collar and waist. They were interesting, but they were also $200. A magnetic store person walked up and persuaded Carl to try one on. The little sweater made him resemble a Keebler elf in grad school. Carl politely returned the garment, and I pulled him out, before one of us went home with something we would regret the next morning.
Did you like/dislike the article's take on the store? Have you visited the Tribeca store since it's opening? If so, we would love to know what you think of it. ;)
The NYT fashion articles always seem either really snarky or really reverential. This one seems a little more even, though there are some weird points (like preppy being treated as a four letter word). He mocks the preppy stuff, but then balks at the more "outrageous" designs. So, what does he want? Does he like the new direction or does he want more preppy back, even though he scoffs at it? Does he want Jcrew to look like french connection or diesel?
ReplyDeleteDespite that, I feel the overall gist was incredulity at the expensiveness of the new stuff... which I agree with.
The writer comes across as having once been against what J.Crew represented and now admitting that its 'look' cannot be escaped. He has a superior sounding tone as he is above this look and the American sportswear trend that is currently so strong. Whether it be due to his taste (or lack of) or simply too little cash the writer walks away with nothing.
ReplyDeleteI think the store is a great piece of advertising on J.Crew's part. The interest and media buzz it has generated is worth more than the store's sales. I live in Canada and I have heard so much about this store and seen so many photos of it that I can only imagine the interest regarding it in NY. So both the article and store are working.
It appears that you two share some distaste for this article. I actually found it incredibly tamed believe it or not. It basically summarizes my exact feeling whilst shopping at JC. The associate always gets one to try something on. That's the bit that annoys me the most. I also feel the same about the patchwork merchandise & of course the overpriced items. One thing though, the columnist is sure making it sound like a novelty store. Well, in a way, maybe it is.
ReplyDeleteOn a side note, isn't the Makintosh $800 online? Unless it's a different coat, it shouldn't be priced at $1200. Then again, it's typical of JC to raise prices for certain items in store. Hmm, I think I might make a visit to the the Tribeca store today.
Oh & by the way, JC guy in canada, there really isn't that much buzz at all regarding this store besides the few articles you've read.
ReplyDeleteJeff, you sound a bit jaded. I'm referring to the above comments and also your comment regarding the wedding video.
ReplyDeleteJ Crew is once again selling us an image, a fantasy. But when you walk out the door in your $800 mac jacket on a rainy day, you'll still be wetter than the guy in the $100 hooded LLBean jacket...
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ReplyDeleteUh, more accurately, you'll be wetter than the guy with an umbrella
ReplyDeleteI'm with you, slightlyoldesally. I've never really understood the usefullness of a raincoat without a hood. I rarely have a free hand with which to hold an umbrella, and if there is any wind at all, they're entirely pointless. And they always seem to be in the way, especially on crowded sidewalks like we typically have here in NYC. I'll take the practical LLBean model over the look-how-much-I-spent JC one ALWAYS.
ReplyDeleteI went there right after it opened, and my husband absolutely loved it. Compared to the traditional J.Crew store, it's very different. It has an edge to it, and I have to say, I hope it sticks around. There were definitely some items I *had* to laugh about, but for the most part, I loved most of the clothes and shoes they had in the store.
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